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Thread: What a Yoke! (prop UJ stuck)

  1. #1
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    What a Yoke! (prop UJ stuck)

    I've got a problem removing the UJ from my rear prop (def90).

    I looked at this guide
    Guide to Defender Propshaft UJ Replacement | Repair My Landrover

    This is the bit that has stuffed me:
    'Then using an old socket and a hammer you knock the UJ down until the bottom cup falls through, this should give you enough room to get the top cup out.'

    Well I tried that and NO there is not enough room to get the top cup clear of the yoke once the bottom has fallen out. Now I cant get the top cup off and I cant relocate it back into the yoke.

    I realise now that I should have followed this guide:
    Prop UJ replacememnt - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
    Which suggests pushing the cup out far enough to pull them out whilst keeping the other end located so you can push it back the other way and do the same for the other side.

    I'm guessing the cup/yoke is tapered and the cup should only be inserted in one way because I tried knocking it back into the yoke but it does not want to go back in without damaging the walls of the yoke. So what do I do now - angle grinder to cut the UJ in half? Or is there a trick I'm missing?

    M.
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  2. #2
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    Lots of different ways of approaching UJs, from using a press or vice to using a hammer, a socket or two and a few judicious swipes.

    What usually makes it relatively quick and easy is to drive one cup inward (with the opposite cup forced out the other end), stopping at the point just before where the first cup would be driven all the way through into the inner part of the joint. Then grip the protruding cup (vice is good for this) and twist it out. Knock the remaining cup back out as far as you can by exerting force on the other end of the "spider", then twist it off the same way. Voila!

    You should be able to align and then return a cup that has pushed into the inner part of the joint back into its original position. The edges are may possibly be chamfered (though unlikely, as they have to be snug with the circlip that retains them), but the diameter does not taper.

    Cheers,

    John

  3. #3
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    I would in this case use a small angle grinder to sever the cross that is exposed. After all you aren't using it again....

    The best method as you have now found out is to only push it through enough to clear so you can get it out the other side...

    This is what I mean, watch from 2:12 to 2:32.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PpR-DcRV08"]How to replace U-joints The THOR method - YouTube[/ame]

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnno1969 View Post

    You should be able to align and then return a cup that has pushed into the inner part of the joint back into its original position. The edges are may possibly be chamfered (though unlikely, as they have to be snug with the circlip that retains them), but the diameter does not taper.
    Ah ok so I may still be able to get it back in then... I might try and get the yoke and cup clean and smooth add a bit of grease and have a go at clamping it back in and pushing it all the way through. I've no vice or even a workbench so I will have to buy a G-Clamp or something.

    Thanks

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I would in this case use a small angle grinder to sever the cross that is exposed. After all you aren't using it again....

    The best method as you have now found out is to only push it through enough to clear so you can get it out the other side...

    This is what I mean, watch from 2:12 to 2:32.

    How to replace U-joints The THOR method - YouTube

    JC
    Ah man that looks so easy. If only I had a vice... clamping the uj and whacking the yoke is the way to go!

    I think I might just cut it off if I cant get it through with a g-clamp. bench vice and a small table is on the shopping list!

    Thanks

  6. #6
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    Hey Mate, I wouldn't even attempt this without a vice. Obviously out bush you would have to improvise, a bullbar is a good start... but yeah, a decent hammer and a vice is the best and easiest way. Just don't get carried away...

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by manic View Post
    Ah ok so I may still be able to get it back in then... I might try and get the yoke and cup clean and smooth add a bit of grease and have a go at clamping it back in and pushing it all the way through. I've no vice or even a workbench so I will have to buy a G-Clamp or something.

    Thanks
    You might struggle to apply enough force in the required direction with a G-clamp. You might be best off supporting the yoke securely, then lining things up and tapping the cup back through.


    Cheers,

    John

  8. #8
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    P.S. Ditto to what Justin just said. You really should be securing all this properly in a vice. In a pinch, all sorts of things are possible with a bit of improvisation - but if you're unfamiliar with the job, use a vice and take things gently.

  9. #9
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    Hiya,For this job, a vice is one of your best friends. The other two are a socket that is a tad smaller in diameter than the cup, and another socket that the cup will fit inside.A small half round file and/or three square scraper to clean up burrs around circlip groove, and any other dags that may be present, can also come in handy.I would give Mr Hammer the day off for all aspects of this particular job.And, when reassembling, be double extra vigilant to ensure that one or more of the pesky little needle rollers to not lie down and go to sleep in the bottom of the cup. This can happen very easily indeed with any form of judicious tapping or belting about.If it comes up hard, and you can't get two opposing circlips in, or see the grooves, do not force the issue, or you may see and hear the bottom suddenly fall out of the cup.Unis are a pretty handy thing to have a few spares of!!!Gumnut.

  10. #10
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    Manic,I tried the method of pushing the cap through,all it did was break up!Ended up supporting the opposing yoke on a couple of blocks of wood and hammering down the top yoke[not the cap] so it forced the cup upwards....gripped it with the vice grips and wriggled it out.Turned it over and did the other side,repeat for the other caps.
    Do not forget to fill the new caps with grease,it saves the rollers from being dislodged when you knock the new caps in.The circlips on mine had a flat side and a bevelled side,the flat side faces the outside.When finally assembled you will find that there is likely a bit of stiffness in the joint,lightly tap the yokes to push the caps outwards against the circlips.Should all then move freely.

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