D1 300TDI overheating issues Broome Please help!

If I Remove the thermostat all together will this be as good as having one?

I guess it will be a little worse as water will bypass through the bypass hose?

Will having the timing out half a notch cause over heating issues?

Can i just get a tea-piece instead of that stupid ejector?

I will check the ejector soon.

I did take the small hoe off the top of the thermostat housing when it was hot and water flowed out from thermostat housing so I suspect its not a air lock in the housing.

Interesting thing is no water came out the little tube so i suspect that is blocked.

I would love if someone in Broome had a TDI. I would use your radiator and buy you a new one if you could let your car sit until a new one arrived?

I saw a Disco for sale but it was a V8 so i could not even ask him very nicely if i could use his radiator until he sold it.

I wouldn't take out the thermostat, it'll run too cold and then under load too hot as the water travels through the rad too quickly with no time to cool down.

Timing belt is probably OK. Injection timing at the pump may cause a rise in temp, not sure.

You can use a t-piece to replace the ejector if needed.

When it was running hot the fan should of had a ROAR to it as the viscous locked up. The ROAR should be heard over the noise of a 300TDI.

How HIGH did the temp needle get.

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Originally Posted by Sparksdisco

If I Remove the thermostat all together will this be as good as having one?

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Check it by dropping it into a pot of water on a stove and watch the valve / flap open, should start to open as soon as the water starts to simmer and be fully open at boiling point.

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Will having the timing out half a notch cause over heating issues?

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Do a check on the injector pump boss hole and the timing mark in the flywheel.

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Can i just get a tea-piece instead of that stupid ejector?

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Don't bother, as cleaning the ejector is easy as poking a piece of fencing wire through it or using a 3 mm drill bit if the blockage is hardened, it has a venturi effect and a tee piece won't be as good at drawing any air from the top of the radiator .

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I will check the ejector soon.
I did take the small hoe off the top of the thermostat housing when it was hot and water flowed out from thermostat housing so I suspect its not a air lock in the housing.
Interesting thing is no water came out the little tube so i suspect that is blocked.
I would love if someone in Broome had a TDI. I would use your radiator and buy you a new one if you could let your car sit until a new one arrived?
I saw a Disco for sale but it was a V8 so i could not even ask him very nicely if i could use his radiator until he sold it.

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I liked Broome when I visited many years ago, it's not a bad place to stay for awhile.
What time of the year does the stairway to heaven occur?
.

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Originally Posted by jboot51

I wouldn't take out the thermostat, it'll run too cold and then under load too hot as the water travels through the rad too quickly with no time to cool down.

Timing belt is probably OK. Injection timing at the pump may cause a rise in temp, not sure.

You can use a t-piece to replace the ejector if needed.

When it was running hot the fan should of had a ROAR to it as the viscous locked up. The ROAR should be heard over the noise of a 300TDI.

How HIGH did the temp needle get.

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I did not let it get above 3/4 so not hot hot.
Yes I hear the ROAR of the fan. I even tried the "try and stop the fan with a lump of wood trick when it is hot" and i could not stop it.

I have my old Thermostat there as a spare so i might put that in and see how it goes

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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Check it by dropping it into a pot of water on a stove and watch the valve / flap open, should start to open as soon as the water starts to simmer and be fully open at boiling point.


Do a check on the injector pump boss hole and the timing mark in the flywheel.



Don't bother, as cleaning the ejector is easy as poking a piece of fencing wire through it or using a 3 mm drill bit if the blockage is hardened, it has a venturi effect and a tee piece won't be as good at drawing any air from the top of the radiator .



I liked Broome when I visited many years ago, it's not a bad place to stay for awhile.
What time of the year does the stairway to heaven occur?
.

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I love broome but after coming up here 5 times last year I would just like to do some camping up along the gibb river. I am weighing up options as we speak. Looks like we might not do Mitchell river falls or not do the bungle bungles.

When i did the injector pump and timing belt both pins were in so it would only be the camshaft pulley tat might not be lined up. But I was anal about making sure that the camshaft marks lined up. I have about 30 photos on my phone to cross check that it was in the right place and accoutinting for the parallel affect.

Working thermostat > no thermostat > stuck closed thermostat.

I wouldn't have a problem in removing it for a test run, but as wrinklearthur says, once you have it out, you might as well just test it on the stove. Easy than going for a drive and trying to verify by the temp gauge.

Let us know how you go!

Couple of thoughts.

On rebuild did you buy a new thermostat? If so and is NOT a waxstat chances are your brand new stat is a dud. For a bush fix (especially in the north) remove the stat and knock the guts out of it but keep the outer ring and re-install it. Essentially you will have almost the same restriction as a full open stat. A 300 in this config will run around the 60 degrees low load, but towing the gibb chances are your water temp will be an appropriate 80-95 degrees.

But the water pressurizing you are are experiencing I have seen with a blocked ejector, didnt think it would happen but sure enough, cleaned it out with some wire replaced it and overheating and pressure jet in the header tank was gone.

Having your timing out can cause overheating but only as a result of overheating the engine first... do you have an EGT. You could always rotate engine to TDC (check on flywheelslot) and check that the IP timing slot lines up - behind the aircon idler pulley?

Also if you are using the standard disco coolant temp gauge. As soon as that needle moves your up over 110 degrees. The gauge is normalised to read "normal" for the range of 80-110 or so. Gauge moves a mm and your getting hot.

Are you confident in your head gasket job? pressurizing could be from the pots to the water jacker.
Did you go with a new head and spotless clean flat deck and an Elring composite gasket?

S

Can i just get a tea-piece instead of that stupid ejector?


I have swapped my ejector for a brass tee piece sourced from my local Auto-one store with no overheating problems at all in the last two years - even after traveling from Perth to Kununurra and back towing a camper trailer and a record breaking hot summer in Perth.

I discovered that when a fan belt let's go, the second thing to go is that ridiculusly priced plastic ejector as it sits in the line of fire of the shredded belt and in my experience, snaps one of the three pipes off pretty much leaving you stranded :mad: - you have to purchase the whole thing with the hoses attached and would be a pain to store as a spare part just in case.. Brass tee piece offers much more peace of mind.

Cheers,
Chookie
'98 300Tdi Disco

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Couple of thoughts.

On rebuild did you buy a new thermostat? If so and is NOT a waxstat chances are your brand new stat is a dud. For a bush fix (especially in the north) remove the stat and knock the guts out of it but keep the outer ring and re-install it. Essentially you will have almost the same restriction as a full open stat. A 300 in this config will run around the 60 degrees low load, but towing the gibb chances are your water temp will be an appropriate 80-95 degrees.

But the water pressurizing you are are experiencing I have seen with a blocked ejector, didnt think it would happen but sure enough, cleaned it out with some wire replaced it and overheating and pressure jet in the header tank was gone.

Having your timing out can cause overheating but only as a result of overheating the engine first... do you have an EGT. You could always rotate engine to TDC (check on flywheelslot) and check that the IP timing slot lines up - behind the aircon idler pulley?

Also if you are using the standard disco coolant temp gauge. As soon as that needle moves your up over 110 degrees. The gauge is normalised to read "normal" for the range of 80-110 or so. Gauge moves a mm and your getting hot.

Are you confident in your head gasket job? pressurizing could be from the pots to the water jacker.
Did you go with a new head and spotless clean flat deck and an Elring composite gasket?

S

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Hi all,

Well I did wat any stupid person did and did the gibb.:D:D:D

I'm currently at el questro with limited internet. wouthout the campertrailer it is fine. put the campertrailer on and put it up a hill and it overheats. It could be the auto as i have a cooler that sits in front of the radiator. also I have developed a slight leak from the wading plug where the flywheel is. anyway it's all ok so far and we are heading to the bungle bungles tomorrow. The gibb has been amazing and i'll keep you updated on what is hapening.

My monies on the radiator needing a recore or the gap between the core of the radiator and the condenser is full of crud.


You might get some more life out of it by giving it a flush/cleaning the guts out.