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Thread: D1 300TDI overheating issues Broome Please help!

  1. #1
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    Exclamation D1 300TDI overheating issues Broome Please help!

    Please hep me if you can.

    Bit of history with thew disco.

    Recently replaced head and head gasket and replaced timing belt Injector pump lift pump and vacumme pump.

    The test drives that i did in Porthedland where all ok. it seems a bit sluggish but i have not tweaked the pump yet.

    Anyway We started our trip yesterday traveling from porthedland to broome towing the camper trailer.

    Found if i had the air con on then i could not go over about 80 on the flats without it starting to over heat. with aircon off it is ok.

    I have so far checked the viscus fan ad seems ok. I could not stop it with a lump of wood when hot.

    I checked and bypassed the temp cutout for the thurmo fans. Both fans are working and just to be sure i have bridged out the temp cutout on it so the fans stay on all the time

    I have used a hose to see if there was a air lock of some description but i dont think there is.

    Radiator place is shut until Monday. we are planing on leaving broome to go into the kimberley tomorrow.

    it is not using coolant and there is no coolant in the oil or vica versa.

    I'm thinking the radiator or the pump. With the cap off and i give it a rev and back to idle water gushes back out the top of the expansion cap so I don't think its the pump.

    can the timing being out cause overheating issues?
    How could i check if the timing is out? When i did the timing belt I was 100% confident that i got the camshaft timing mark dead on.

    Is there another way of easy checking timing without using dial gauges?

    Is there anyone in the broome area that has a radiator for a D1 that i can purchase of someone.

    Hope someone can help.

    Cheers

    Stephen Paice

    PS if someone wants to talk to me call me on 0437151281 or message me

  2. #2
    Judo's Avatar
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    "With the cap off and i give it a rev and back to idle water gushes back out the top of the expansion cap so I don't think its the pump."

    Something is up there. My understanding is you can rev it at stand still with the cap off and it won't go everywhere. Is the coolant level half way up the expansion tank when you do this? And it rises all the way to the top and out?

    If I had to guess, I would say check the thermostat. Possibly a blocked radiator.

    If you feel the top and bottom radiator hoses, is there a significant temp difference?
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    "With the cap off and i give it a rev and back to idle water gushes back out the top of the expansion cap so I don't think its the pump."

    Something is up there. My understanding is you can rev it at stand still with the cap off and it won't go everywhere. Is the coolant level half way up the expansion tank when you do this? And it rises all the way to the top and out?

    If I had to guess, I would say check the thermostat. Possibly a blocked radiator.

    If you feel the top and bottom radiator hoses, is there a significant temp difference?
    So when you rev it the level wont change.

    When you go from 3000 to idle by taking your foot off it fountains up but returns to the correct level. dose not overflow out of the tank.

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    Could be an air lock in the thermostat housing.
    My Engine saver was intermittently going off.
    The coolant ejector was blocked. Cleaned it out and now I can see a jet of water shooting up in the expansion tank.

    The viscous coupling can be bodged up by taking the outside edge of the spring out of the retainer and turning it Anti-clockwise until rests on outside of the retainer. This will give it more lock up but will suck up some horsepower and fuel economy will suffer.

    Water will shoot back through the expansion tank when revved if the thermostat is not open. If you let it idle up to operating temp then there should be hot water flowing through the expansion tank.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
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    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    Could be an air lock in the thermostat housing.
    My Engine saver was intermittently going off.
    The coolant ejector was blocked. Cleaned it out and now I can see a jet of water shooting up in the expansion tank.

    The viscous coupling can be bodged up by taking the outside edge of the spring out of the retainer and turning it Anti-clockwise until rests on outside of the retainer. This will give it more lock up but will suck up some horsepower and fuel economy will suffer.

    Water will shoot back through the expansion tank when revved if the thermostat is not open. If you let it idle up to operating temp then there should be hot water flowing through the expansion tank.
    What is this coolant ejector you speak of????
    Is that that little black thing that helps to remove air from the system? where is this located???

  6. #6
    Boxhead63 Guest
    Stephen, Whatever you do don't leave Broome with a dodgy cooling system. I am aware you have time constraints however, it's not worth it. I live in Derby and travel the Kimberley extensively and am not aware of any competent radiator repairer O/S of Broome. There is a NATRAD service in Broome at Cnr Tanami Dr & Florence Way, Blue Haze. They would be the best tip but being a NATRAD service center they would be as dear as sin. I used one in Sydney once and it cost me 1k. As far as LR mechanics I don't know of any. What might pay you to do is drive around Broome and keep your eyes open for LR's and bail up the owners and ask them where they get there LR serviced. There are a few there. If the weather is fine tomorrow head down to Gantheaume Pt beach Just about every 4wd in Broome will be there, you might catch one there.
    If i can be of any assistance you can PM me and i'll give you my phone number.

    Cheers
    Rob

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    There was a list posted by someone on here with recommended service centers that know Landy's. Here is the WA section.

    Western Australia
    Albany - Land Rover Albany ** 400 Albany Highway Albany, 6330 (08) 9882 0850
    Broome - Broome Mechanical 1 Tanami Drive Broome, 6725 (08) 9193 6006
    Broome - Shinju Motor Group 108 Guy Street Broome, 6725 (08) 9192 1250
    Bunbury - Panuccio Autos 19 Stuart Street Bunbury, 6230 (08) 9791 4449
    Geraldton - Whyatts Automotive 90 Anderson Street Geraldton 6530 (08) 9965 4333
    Kalgoorlie - Gold City Land Rover 4 Federal Road Kalgoorlie, 6430 (08) 9091 7676
    Kununurra - East Kimberley Motors 5 Mango Street Kununurra, 6743 (08) 9168 3001
    Perth - Southern Land Rover ** 1286-1288 Albany Highway Cannington, 6107 (08) 9231 9777
    Perth - Barbagallo Land Rover ** 354 Scarborough Beach Road, Osborne Park, 6017 (08) 9231 5555
    Perth - Discovery Auto 4/22 Paramount Drive Wangarra, 6065 (08) 9302 6680

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    Judo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    Could be an air lock in the thermostat housing.
    My Engine saver was intermittently going off.
    The coolant ejector was blocked. Cleaned it out and now I can see a jet of water shooting up in the expansion tank.

    The viscous coupling can be bodged up by taking the outside edge of the spring out of the retainer and turning it Anti-clockwise until rests on outside of the retainer. This will give it more lock up but will suck up some horsepower and fuel economy will suffer.

    Water will shoot back through the expansion tank when revved if the thermostat is not open. If you let it idle up to operating temp then there should be hot water flowing through the expansion tank.
    Agree, need to check for air at the top of the thermostat housing and ideally check the thermostat is working. Be very careful undoing the thermostat housing plug if the engine is hot though!!!! Don't want an explosion of hot coolant on your face!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparksdisco View Post
    So when you rev it the level wont change.

    When you go from 3000 to idle by taking your foot off it fountains up but returns to the correct level. dose not overflow out of the tank.
    I could be wrong, but I don't believe there should ever be any kind of "fountain". Coolant should flow through the tank, but the level changing significantly seems odd to me. More reasons to suspect air and thermostat issues. I'm open to being told otherwise though and concede that if the thermostat hasn't opened when it should have there could be excessive pressure and cause weird effects like level changes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparksdisco View Post
    What is this coolant ejector you speak of????
    Is that that little black thing that helps to remove air from the system? where is this located???
    Ejector hose is the think black hose that runs from thermostat housing back to expansion tank and radiator via a join.



    I don't think this could be causing the problem though.

    TBH it could be leaking head gasket, but you should check the more basic items like thermostat first. Also, top and bottom radiator hose temperatures? Bottom hose should be luke warm. If the top hose near the radiator end is not hot (or not as hot as the water pump end), that also points to thermostat not opening.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparksdisco View Post
    What is this coolant ejector you speak of????
    Is that that little black thing that helps to remove air from the system? where is this located???
    Yep that's it.
    Located to the left of the AC compressor sort of floating.
    hoses go to expansion tank, thermostat housing, radiator.
    Mine was blocked, thermostat to expansion tank.
    I used wd40 to soften the crud and then compressed air. It is now free flowing in all directions.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  10. #10
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    water problems

    I went through all sorts of scenarios with possible fixes, in the end I fitted a new radiator and have not had any trouble since.

    A dodgy waterpump seal can allow air to be drawn in until the coolant pressure builds up, but its the plaque buildup inside the radiator tubes that causes air to be drawn in the first place.

    If you are not sure whether it's the radiator at fault, try find a sympathetic soul to swap a known good one with and try it on a run, see it that fixes the problem.

    Make sure all the radiator hose clamps are tight, and do bleed at the coolant filler several times with the engine running to get rid of any air in the coolant gallery.

    The air bleed tubes will need checking also, undo the end which goes onto the thermostat housing and blow back into the expansion tank while blocking the line that goes to the top of the radiator, then do the reverse, blowing into the radiator while blocking the expansion tank line and you should be able to blow both directions without any trouble. if there is a blockage, a 3 mm drill bit can be used to clean the ports out in the venturi .

    If you have to disturb the waterpump at all, do fit another 'P' gasket, and make sure that you carry those parts as spares.
    .

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