Thread: Latest word on replacing shuttle valves D2

I got the shuttle valve kit from eBay for $75.00 delivered...

I will be pulling the unit out completely and using the opportunity to flush the entire system.

I'm also rebuilding the calipers as part of this...

It's probably worth doing the seals in the shuttle valves while you are in there.

These guys seem to be the only source for the seal kit.

ABS shuttle valve code solution; brake fluid leaks

Originally Posted by Zute

Just wondering what the latest word on replacing the shuttle valves in a Discovery 2 is. I need to do mine, as there sticking to often now.
Can we get the kits here in Oz or is it better to order from the UK ?
Or is someone refurbishing the whole modulator for a good price ?
Many thanks in advance.

How can you tell that they are sticking? I would be suspecting the shuttle valve switches or "the root cause" solder dry joints in the PCB first. Do you have the error codes available?

I'm the first to admit replacing perfectly good shuttle valves...

Cheers
Ron

Sorry to take so long getting back to this.
RSCHIPP, I had a Landie mechanic drive mine to find a clunk that I couldn't trace, and he pointed out that they ( or one ) where sticking. And when he described it, I could tell by the feel.
Though he also said about $2000 bucks would fix it.

Have you logged any error codes in relation to the shuttle valve switches? What are the codes?

If one is sticking then I would expect errors to be logged as one of the reasons why the switches are there in the first place is to monitor if there is a failure (low pressure due to a broken pipe etc) of either of the two hydraulic brake circuits.

You can remove the shuttle valves and clean them if you like. About a ten minute job, plus bleading the brakes. The Falcon works kit, see OffTrack's post, supplies new O ring seals but does not provide new shuttle valves just the new switches which you probably don't need.

I would pull the valves out have and give them a good clean and see how you go. I would not be spending $2,000 on this... If a replacement is required be on the lookout for a cheap ABS module from a private wreck.

I assume that you have eliminated sticking caliper issues at each wheel. i.e. checked slide pins and slave pistons for correct and normal operation. It is a bit hard from your description to what is going on.

Just a few questions above as this is the first time that I have heard of anybody reporting sticking shuttle valves.

Cheers
Ron

Well, finely got around to fixing the three amigos. Bought a shuttle valve switch assembly and shuttle valve plunger seal kit from Falconworks in the States. Took about 6-8 days. But I ordered it on the 4th July.
Cutting long story short, all fitted, (had a lot of brake fluid around switches )bleed brakes ( very dirty fluid ) power bleed and still had faults. Rebleed brakes, power bleed. Test drive, Hi guys, amigos are back.
Decided to sleep on it.
Next morning took it for a drive in the Bush to see what was working. Nothing, bugger. Started to drive home and tested the ABS with left side on dirt and right on tar. ABS braking worked. Tested TC, not working. Re set fault codes. Tried traction control on small gutter, working. Tested brakes, working. Drive some steep tracks, all good. Drive home all good.
Only question now is, do I sell it while its all working ?

Nup. Use it!

Pete

They're back, so now it looks like option B
Or, an exchange modulator from Falcon works. But I might wait for the exchange rate to improve.