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in that case...
if you have new carrier bearings as well I would be inclined to run it at the .20 (maybe even a tiny bit tighter) setting and let it settle out a bit.
you'll probably find that the magic spot on that diff is going to be somewhere near .21984665836586963455578888mm and you'll have to hold your tongue in exactly the right spot to hit it.
Yeah - that sounds like a good plan. Will run with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
In case anyone else finds it useful - as a diff newbie this bulletin is probably the simplest/clearest one I've seen: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5717.pdf
Steve
It was all going swimmingly, until I pressed on the new cones and put the carrier back in. Bearing preload and backlash are far too tight :(
I've double checked that the new cones are seated properly, so it must be that the setup cones I borrowed aren't Timken like the new bearings. Bugger.
Short story is that I now need to remove the brand new cones (hopefully without wrecking them), lay my hands on some Timken 388A setup cones and start from the beginning again.
The Yukon bearing pullers seem to be the ducks nuts for the job, but the price isn't so attractive The Yukon Carrier Bearing Puller - YT P22
At least there are recesses under the bearings to get a 2 jaw puller in. Has anyone had success getting bearings off in one piece with standard 2-jaw pullers or similar - or am I better to spend the time making up a custom puller to do the job?
Steve
Gents,
Just going through a rebuild, read the below, and just need a quick pointer, you say for fast road use, shift the pattern mid center.
And competition have it like the picture below?
Cheers
Jim