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Thread: Inline ball valve for brake lines

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
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    Inline ball valve for brake lines

    I have the need to install an inline ball valve in one of my brake lines......

    any ideas which type of ball valve I should be looking for??

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Bundaberg Qld
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    Not sure it is legal to do this. I would be doing some homework first.

  3. #3
    Tombie Guest
    What is your plan Weeds?

    And yes, I think the legality is questionable...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Lol.....oh you guys apparently my camper trailer needs brakes when it weighs in at 1200kg

    I fitting electric over hydraulic brakes and I had a sneak peak at a Kimberly camper at the van show on the weekend as they use a ball valve inline for the handbrake.....neat idea

    a button near the brake pump on the trailer to trick it that you have pressed the brake pedal, once brakes have applied you turn the valve to lock them on......hydraulic handbrake

    Kimberly would probably charge the earth for their bits and pieces

  5. #5
    Tombie Guest
    Contact Stauff Corporation.

    Specify your fluid media...

    A google will get you their online catalogue etc

  6. #6
    Tombie Guest
    Just make sure that the stem seal is EPDM and EPDM or PTFE seats.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Nowra NSW
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    There is a valve which is approved and legal for vehicle use to do what you want to do.
    PBR make it and it costs a bomb.
    It is used mainly on jndustrial vehicles as a extra parking brake.
    The reason the trailer mob used a ball valve is cost.
    Also the PBR valve is known to play up if exposed to the elements for long periods of time.
    I army vehicle I used to drive many years ago called a M816 recovery truck had a electric solenoid operated valve that locked on the brakes and released them by pressing on the brake pedal harder.
    So commercially legal valves are advailible.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Nowra NSW
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Torres Straits
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    Weeds,
    Faced witht he same issue on this camper chassis Im building at the moment.
    Instead of locking off the hydraulics as you suggest I have decided to run with an idea stole from someplace on the internets...

    -Cut off the end of the axle from a tojo CV.
    -Weld it to the centre of the flange that the stub axles bolt to.
    -Then run a set of freewheeling hubs on the outside.
    -For handbrake turn the freewheelers to lock and it will lock the hub to the axle which is welded to the fixed flange.
    (bit slower than locking the hydraulics but means the caliper seals etc are not under pressure for extended periods and less chance of sticktion between the pads and rotors.
    -Also means you can likely get some tricky reversing. Lock one hub, reverse back slowly and the trailer should jack knife 90 degrees on the locked wheel.
    -With a set of those naff chrome covers I imagine it will be a good theft deterent too unless I keep telling the whole wide world about it

    Just another idea...

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Drouin East, Vic
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    JEGS Hydraulic Brake Lock - JEGS

    Looks perfect for the job and US$30
    Drag racers use 'line lockers' to lock the front brakes for burnouts and power starts, usually solenoid activated but this is a manual version. Wish I'd thought of this when putting the electric/hydraulic setup on my camper- which is, by the way, every bit as good as kimberley claims it to be. A park brake like this would be the icing on the cake. Another job for the list.....

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