Happy to be corrected but i'm pretty sure a loose cable wont kill the auto it just wont change down correctly when you boot it, over tight it will adversely affect it.
will kill your D1 ZF so check it OK?
I'm kickingmyself since it took 2 min to adjust it today and vastly improve performance, but now one of my clutches is gone (kicks up to 2nd at 40 kph).
OK so I also didn't do an auto service in the same period, but I'm pretty sure the loose kickdown killed the clutch.
Happy to be corrected but i'm pretty sure a loose cable wont kill the auto it just wont change down correctly when you boot it, over tight it will adversely affect it.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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1998 Triumph Daytona T595
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1958 Holden FC special sedan
Hi, my understanding is that no kickdown tension at idle causes clutch wear.
At the moment, it shifts beautifully except that it frequently flares up to 1st at 40 kph when shifting between 2nd and 3rd. Very occasionally it flares up to 2nd at around 60 kph also. My understanding is this is due to worn clutches and/or poor pressure.
Changing oil and filter didn't fix it, so I suspect a worn clutch.
I would say that you have to much tenson on the cable that would be your problem.
The cable should be loose so to be able to move it around 10mm side to side and up or down .
Do you have the Rave?
have you checked out how to properly test and adjust the auto?
have you done a stall test yet?
A slack cable wont automatically kill an auto, it'll just shift early, a tight cable will make it shift late. Excess power with a slack cable will start to cause problems
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...tml#post457830
that post of the grey box of evil thread should give you a primer on why
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
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Thanks Dave. Did a stall test and got 2300 rpm but I can't find anything about this in RAVE. It also doesn't cover flaring into 1st when shifting from 2nd-3rd as a fault.
I adjusted the kickdown so that there's a 4mm gap with cable detached.
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