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Thread: Shock Valving and Load Levellers

  1. 19th July 2013, 08:20 PM #1
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    Shock Valving and Load Levellers

    Hi all,
    I want to fit a load leveller back on my County, and am soon to buy new and much longer shocks with different mounts.
    What, if any, is the difference in valving for shocks between a vehicle fitted with a load leveller and the same vehicle without? Because of the central pivot effect of the LL and softer spring rate I understand it will have greater body roll.
    Would this be correct? Should a shock be valved with more/less bump or rebound? It's all a black art to me at this stage.
    I suspect Serg may be interested in this, if he doesn't already know the answer...
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  2. 19th July 2013, 08:32 PM #2
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    Longer springs? I'm of the understanding they don't work with a lift, or is that just heavier springs.
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  3. 19th July 2013, 08:46 PM #3
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    Damien, you are right they don't worrk with a lift, or would be right, except Serg and I have been looking at getting the load levellers extended to suit too. Mine goes to an engineering firm next week to get a quote...
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  4. 19th July 2013, 08:59 PM #4
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    Aha I see, good luck
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  5. 19th July 2013, 09:21 PM #5
    uninformed
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    Hi Mark,

    Rick130 will know more. If its just a case of controlling the body more Id say more rebound. If it is possible, maybe call someone like Koni and get their stock valving numbers for the early 110s fitted with LL and the later tdi without. This could give you a base line. Remeber that most shock makers use different values or points when talking valving number so they dont cross over to other brands.

    What shocks are you going to? And are you shooting for the same spring rate as stock with LL?
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  6. 19th July 2013, 09:37 PM #6
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    Yeah the aim is to get some ~2" taller 180lb/" rate springs, I don't know enough about load leveller values to be able to tune that side of things.
    Shocks are likely to be the Amada Extremes that Superior and Sus Stuff are selling, though open to suggestions of course.
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  7. 19th July 2013, 10:23 PM #7
    Dougal
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    Just fit a big pneumatic cylinder where the leveler goes instead.
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  8. 19th July 2013, 10:34 PM #8
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    But I have the leveller, and I don't have a big pneumatic cylinder and I don't have the knowledge for working out just how big a pneumatic cylinder it should be nor what pressure it should be run at and where would I get a compressor that runs at high enough pressure, if the '000+psi of the Boge unit is anything to go by. Suppose could go air over hydraulic and use power steering hydro to get the pressure. A bridge too far.
    Or maybe it is chasing 60s technology when I should be more concerned with air springs?

    Back to the shocks...
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  9. 19th July 2013, 10:53 PM #9
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    Boge unit bolts straight on, then your done
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  10. 19th July 2013, 11:43 PM #10
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    The spring rates are vastly different between an LL rear end and no LL, so the valving needs to be appropriate for the spring.

    Roll/low speed control comes from the bleed/low speed circuit of the damper and there's two ways to go here, either prop up the loaded (out)side with lots of low speed bump (Bilstein or current theory in race cars with downforce, which makes for a jiggly ride and defeats the purpose of the LL and using soft springs IMO) or use lots of low speed rebound to tie down the inside of the chassis, but if you use too much you'll start to pull the inside wheel off the road. Highly unlikely in a road going car, but been there, done that in race cars.

    Land Rover tuned the Rangie dampers for ride, without them being under-damped at all.
    Personally I reckon they got it right, you just need to let the suspension roll and comply and the driver (and passengers) just need to get used to it
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