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Thread: 3ootdi turbo rebuild

  1. #1
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    3ootdi turbo rebuild

    Tried a searching nothing too specific.

    Just wondering if anyone has gone to the effort of either re-sealing a 300tdi turbo (kits are available) or replacing the cartridge/ CHRA (allegedly available from garrett)???

    My "good" turbo with intact vanes is now leaking both oil internally and exhaust gases about the centre seal. Still driving okay and making good boost but just want to tidy it up.

    My"sub-good" turbo is oil tight but the vanes look a little like the compressor wheel of a jet that has eaten a flock of ducks.

    Im actually happy with stock turbo: It makes adeqaute boost and has no appreciable lag so have no raging reason to change the actual hairdryer.
    Just want some to tighten it up.

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  2. #2
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    I hate to be the bearer of bad news. But a turbo leaking oil usually means an engine problem (lots of blowby) and the turbo is an innocent victim.

    Check your engine breathers. If they are all clear then check the amount of blowby.

    Your old turbo being eroded sounds like something got past the airfilter and into the engine. This and the resulting loss of compression could be the real problem.

  3. #3
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    -engine only 250 hours since complete rebuild (hence why I dont want to be feeding it oil)
    -this engine which was rebuilt had been dusted (ex forestry no air filter instu) which had also taken out the turbo on it.

    -current turbo is from my old disco and has probably 400,000km on it.

    -engine has a provent and is not blowing oil unlike the old girl that used about 10L per 5000km - I liked to call it the continuous oil change.

    I will do a few checks but reckon this time it is gonna be the hairdryer

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  4. #4
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    The thing is, turbos always leak. Their seals are a labyrinth type which pass air and exhaust from the turbo housings through to the centre section and down out the drain pipe with oil.

    The only way they can leak oil outwards is if the drain gets interrupted. No matter how worn the turbo bushings and seals might get, they still don't leak without an engine problem.

    Could your engine have not bedded in yet and still be high on blowby and crank-case pressure?
    How is the provent plumbed in? I've had a shocker with mine, it sucked oil out the sump and fed it through the intake. About 8 litres over 1500km. It's rebuild time for me. I stripped the provent apart, modified it and reversed the flow. Now it can't possibly suck oil up and it filters oil droplets like it should.

  5. #5
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    Smile Turbo Cartridge.

    Hey Steve, check across on D1 forum, I seem to remember a recent post that mentioned a replacement cartridge for a 300Tdi blower and I think also the supplier was mentioned, but the old memory not too sharp so cannot help with exact location.
    Sorry to hear that the Deefer is unwell, I'm hoping to get back up home and give the old Disco a run soon, Annual Cape/OTL trip coming up .
    Gaz.

  6. #6
    redrovertdi Guest
    a couple of years ago i purchased a rebuild kit from ebay, cost about $60 from memory, an easy install and worked well but needed large circlip pliers[i had to borrow], i later found turbo cartridges on ebay and i would do that if i had to do again, i later fitted a mtq turbo in its place because it turned up at the right price.
    Moral of the story is it wasnt hard to do at all but follow the instructions for your perticular turbo[the kit was for a few different turbos so there were different parts included]

  7. #7
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    Turbo kit is t2/t25. Rebuild kits are cheap. I've done several on different Engines.

    But can be a waste of time if the problem isn't the turbo.

  8. #8
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    Thanks Dougal for the tips
    Ill do some playing with the breather Provent
    The turbo IS blowing black soot out from about the flange at the exhaust wheel so Im guessing it must be tired to do that

    Perhaps Ill chase down a catridge to put into the beaten up unit which then makes it a quick and easy turn over?

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Thanks Dougal for the tips
    Ill do some playing with the breather Provent
    The turbo IS blowing black soot out from about the flange at the exhaust wheel so Im guessing it must be tired to do that

    Perhaps Ill chase down a catridge to put into the beaten up unit which then makes it a quick and easy turn over?

    S
    The soot escaping means it's not fitting well in the exhaust housing. Might be worth removing, cleaning and reinstalling.

    Turbo health is usually a yes/no thing. They're either good or they're dead. I'm not picking up any clues that yours is dead.

  10. #10
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    There is a crowd in Towoomba called superior turbo, they do a lot of turbos and were really helpful with questions etc when i enquired about the Garret 25 on the 300 tdi ive got.

    Superior Turbos: Reconditioned turbos & rebuilt turbochargers - Welcome to Superior Turbos

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