Reply With QuotePersonally I don't like any of them Frank, I'd rather use a proper Sunnen hone so the grit/depth and cross hatch can be controlled and then finish with a plateau hone after.
AT REST
Which of the above would be suitable for deglazing the bores on a 300TDi and restoring cross hatch pattern.
What size Ball Hone would be advisable for the 300TDi, I am just going to clean up the bores while I've got the head off, Regards Frank.
see here: http://www.enginehones.com/hones.html
Moderator
Personally I don't like any of them Frank, I'd rather use a proper Sunnen hone so the grit/depth and cross hatch can be controlled and then finish with a plateau hone after.
RoverLord
I use the bottle brush hones ONLY IF the bores are otherwise perfect.
if the bores dont come up within tolerance send the block off for work and lo, it comes back with the cross hatching.
Dave
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AT REST
Dave and Rick, to use my stone hone I would have to remove the lip and the pistons, I only want to deglaze the bore and restore a bit of cross hatch pattern and I was wondering which would be the best to use and need to know what size Ball hone for the 300TDi bore, Regards Frank
Moderator
Out of my experience there Frank, sorry.
YarnMaster
SupporterFrank,
In my limited experience
If your 300 block has a good going lip and has lost the cross hatching
Putting in some hatches without changing the pistons/rings will just make you feel better without actually sealing the bottom end any better?
If the bores are worn (lipped) then putting in some hatches is unlikely to achieve a great deal? The pistons and rings will still be flogging around in over size pots.
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
AT REST
The bores have a marginal lip, barely discernable and there is some cross hatching still showing, I like to scratch the bore up a bit, as you said it makes me feel better.
This engine has over 400,000klms and I will totally rebuild it when it gets to half a mill., while the head is off I will give the bores a light workover, Regards Frank.
Master
If I read it correct you do not want to remove the pistons.
If so do not touch the bores, all you will do is induce grit into your engine ring lands. You will then be dooing a full rebuild @405000.
This is my opinion FWIW.
Regards Mark
AT REST
Thanks for the advice, I have been doing this for over 50 years now, though not with a Ball Hone or Scotch Brite ball, I usually make up a hone using emery cloth strips attached to a wooden dowel. First up with the piston near BDC (about 15mm off the bottom of the stroke) I smear a line of grease around edge of piston, sealing off rings and lands.Originally Posted by big harold
Then I run my home made hone up and down to get the desired effect, then I clean the bore with some petrol on a rag till the rag stays clean, I then lower the piston to BDC and wipe off the line of grease, then I do it all over again with Shellite, then I do it again with detergent and water. When the rag is no longer picking up any dirt, I oil up a clean rag and scrub the bore, with the piston at TDC I check that there is no grease on the piston and then move onto the next bore. Never had a problem with the rings or lands wearing out because of swarf or grit, works for me, Regards Frank.
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