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This is also how I do it. Only works on 4wd's though, not enough space to run the tape on cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
I just use a paint pen to mark the edge of a tread block though.
The rope around the wheels relies on your front and back track being the same and tyres being the same. I haven't checked track width front/back, but one set of my wheels are different front/back.
doesnt matter what the track front and rear is, you just have to be able to setup a perfect square and know how to do the measurements.
You setup a string parallel but off the wheels and centred off the chassis centreline.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
It'll show up anything that's out of whack, eg. panhard rod needing adjustment.
One thing that Landies are bad for is the wheelbase being different side to side too.
On open wheelers we'd make bars for the front and rear that pip pinned or bolted into place at hub height with a slot equidistant ether side of the centreline for the fishing line so setup was bloody quick, and if you'd already sorted bump steer back in the workshop you don't need a dead flat surface either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
You guys know exactly what the problem is. Perfect square on a landrover.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Sure it can be done, but then I'd know just how far off centre the rear A-arm bracket is and how far I'd need to pack the panhard rod.
I'm only trying to set toe-in dammit.
Speaking of which, I run approx 1mm toe-in. I know the specs are toe-out but I like it better this way. What does everyone else run?
One of my 4wd cars specs 0-4mm toe front and rear.:eek:
Toe out, always have.
Couldn't handle toe out on the Dunnydoor years ago and ran toe in on the F100, as does the Patrol but have run up to 15mm toe out (yes, you read that right) on a race car :D
BTW, I measured toe out on the rear of the 130 when I first strung it :eek: so yes, you don't want to measure a Rover too closely or accurately. ;)
Have no idea what SWMBO's new (French) car specs.
My Rangie has a slight problem because someone put the RH trailing arm on the chassis mount the wrong way so that the rear axle is crooked. I didn't even notice when I first got it and I still haven't fixed it since the car is getting some major work soon. But it certainly hasn't made any difference to the way it drives.
I've always found that Landies are pretty blunt in the suspension department and can tolerate huge tolerances. The rear springs on my brother's SIII had their front mounts closer together than their rear mounts so that we had to use spacers on the shackle plates to stop tearing out bushes. It worked, and the thing drove perfectly well.
plus or minus is a compromise between tyre wear and handling so play with it to suit yourself:p As my tierod is cranked I am limited to the pitch of thread without the complication of a 2 piece rod:p
I run 0.
I run 1-3 mm toe out on the 110 and the disco. 0 on the IIA.
When I run the stringline around it is always flat against both rear tyres but only touches one sidewall on each front tyre.
Works for me. They are solid axle 4x4s, not bugatti veyrons.
True, but I tend to think solid axle 4x4's need more help to go in straight lines at legal speeds than Veyrons.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
I run toe-in because it gives less wander when going from corner to corner and makes them track straighter. How do you find the toe-out for wandering in a straight line?