Reply With QuoteTape measure would save you $124.50 and even more portable
YarnMaster
Subscriberwhen I replaced the track rod on the P38 due to slack ball joint, I was ultra careful, so I thought to ensure that the new rod was exactly the length of the one I removed... however I could tell from the steering that it was a bit out..
Being adventurous,I have been exploring all sorts of options to make a DIY wheel aligner, refreshing my memory of Yr9 trigonometry
experimenting with laser pointer pens, lengths of dental floss (very strong "line" for baseline measuring) etc.
While I was in the UK I saw a product for 69 GBP plus 10 GBP postage (total $136) which is a simple laser device. Sadly I could not arrange delivery in time to bring it home in my suitcase
good news: then I discovered that a chap in Metropolitan Bris imports them ... I ordered one just before I flew home and my new toy arrived the day after
I set it up in about 5 mins (once I'd sourced 2 AAA batteries from SWBO's pocket torch) and determined that the alignment has just 1 deg of toe-in!
Because of the solid axle, camber and castor are set so toe-in/out is all that requires adjustment.
Trackace Laser Wheel Alignment Tool | eBay
Weighs less than 1kg ...could take it with you on a big trip! (pack beside the kitchen sink...)
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Tape measure would save you $124.50 and even more portable
Master
Hi
True tap measures are more portable and a lot cheaper.
They don't work if you run mud tyres with the lugs that are 1 in 1 in then 1 out very well though, as its hard to get everything to line up and level.
I clamp some straight edges (2 each lengths to each tyre) to the tyre side wall to do the measurement, but it's inconvenient.
Does this thing work on lugged tyres and given reasonable accuracy?
Clive
Swaggie
Or the method I use... A rope tied to the tow bar then run around the vehicle at the same height, and tied tight back to the bullbar. (you still need a ruler or tape measure to do the measurement).Originally Posted by Tombie
Tape measure would save you $124.50 and even more portable
ChatterBox
SubscriberA telescopic rod held to the bead of the rims is a backyarder's wheel aligner. Even a couple of bits of timber clamped together to length.
RoverLord
my method is
pick a pair of tread blocks.
paint them white and while the paint is wet scribe mark a line in it.
line them up parrallel at the back of the axle and measure
rotate the wheels so they are at the front and measure
subtract front from rear a +ve number is toed in a -ve number is toed out
its a lot easier to do with the vehicle on jack stands.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Moderator
Parallel string line.
Cheap, simple and dead accurate.
Wheel aligned lots of race cars and the odd Defender that way.
AT REST
I use one of my adjustable tent poles, easy peasy, regards Frank.
Swaggie
That was the method I tried to describe above...
YarnMaster
SubscriberAll of the above probably work to some extent within limits.
The proper measure for toe in/out however is the angular displacement from the straight ahead position of a line from the theoretical centre of the hub. Measuring toe in/out in terms of mm /inches is simply a projection of this angle from the straight ahead position and assumes a certain size wheel/tyre arrangement. Thus moving from 29"to say 33" tyres, the measurements will change unless you're looking for a zero toe in setup.
Using a tape measure may get you close but the order of accuracy (inherent error) is generally greater than the precision of what you're trying to measure.
for example, it's no use trying to set toe-in /out at say 1mm when the error in measurement with a tape is probably +/- 2mm even with the most precise methods. Despite best intentions you can't accurately determine the centrepoint of a tyre tread within the precision required for accurate alignment.
I've tried many methods, including measuring distances between a "wire" string and rim with a vernier completing a low voltage circuit so that a light came on when the vernier just touched the wire with minimum force so that measurement wasn't reflecting a deflected "string"...
The beauty of this simple gadget is that it measures the angular displacement accurately to +/- 2.5 minutes (1/24th of a degree), and fits rims from 13" to 22" irrespective of tyre type...racing slicks through to muddies....
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks