V8 electronic dizzy (how fun they are)

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Originally Posted by omnibus

this is the type of module that is in the vehicle
is this oem for a 1980 stage 1 v8
if not does anyone know where I can find info on oem gear
is there a better alternative (such as points or better module setups)

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The picture is of a chinese copy of a Bosch BIM024 module. They were never fitted OEM to any Land Rover. However they work very well when they are working. You can buy a genuine BIM024 Bosch module from any auto parts store (eg Bursons) or ebay. I don't have much trouble with these modules but I only use genuine Bosch. I fit tons of these as an upgrade to the Lucas module used by LR.

But before you buy one check the dissy, set your multi meter to resistance and make sure the pickup coil in the dissy isn't open circuit. These dissies are tons more reliable than points dissies, easy to diagnose and repair. But if you can't handle electronics, by all means go back to points and get used to crappy cheap points burning out every 7000km instead of electronic failure every 200 000km.

My comments on clean tight screws, wires and mountings for the module still stand. Dirty wet connections don't make for good contact. Also make sure your ignition coil is a proper electronic ignition type. The original points coil will damage the module.

this set up has been running like this for years with no problems so i can only assume whom ever did this mod used correct dizzy and coil and I have hit that 200 000 km mark i guess
one last question i have power to 15 and 16 but none to 3 and 7 when ignition is on is this normal are 3 and 7 triggered intermittently
or better still how do I properly diagnose the ignition module

Quote:

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Originally Posted by omnibus

this set up has been running like this for years with no problems so i can only assume whom ever did this mod used correct dizzy and coil and I have hit that 200 000 km mark i guess
one last question i have power to 15 and 16 but none to 3 and 7 when ignition is on is this normal are 3 and 7 triggered intermittently
or better still how do I properly diagnose the ignition module

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Gotta multimeter? 3 and 7 are the input to the module. With the ignition off, connect your multimeter across the wires connected to 3 and 7 and check the resistance. Then rotate the dissy so that the pickup inside the dissy is being passed by a tooth on the rotor. The resistance reading will fluctuate as there is a small voltage being generated by the pickup coil during this movement. (Each time a rotor tooth passes the pickup a small trigger voltage is generated. This triggers the ignition module into switching the coil on&off (like points do) to cause a spark at that exact same moment.) If there is open circuit across the pickup and it doesn't generate any effect on the meter when moving, your pickup is dead. If the pickup is fine your module is probably dead. New el cheapo for under $30 or genuine for around $70.

"connect your multimeter across the wires connected to 3 and 7 and check the resistance" ty for that....

update
well i purchased the genuine bosch module bim-024 and removed my (no idea of brand ) other module bim-024 copy

I went out the back and grabbed a few coils out of the rigs i have
I tested a few different coils and ended up with one of the oil filled can type works a treat
worst part of this whole situation is it was the coil the whole time not the module
oh And my timing changed by about 20 deg so just adjusted that and away she went

now I have just purchased a engine from Debacle with 20 thou bore, 10 thou crank grind a petronix setup in the dizzy and a few other bits, does anyone else have one of these setups are they as good if not better than what I am running now ?