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im a fan of the ems.
All necessary fuctions mentioned above in a single gauge that replaces the clock.
I also like having float switch in thecoolant header tank for low coolant
Ems has this switch as an input and gives audible alarm as well as visual readout saying low coolant
S
From what I can tell, though, with a decent number of sensors etc the EMS is quite expensive ?
I'm not after info for the sake of it - really just want to monitor those crucial things so that I can see any developingproblems and stop the vehcile before it kills itself - eh low coolant alarms (like what Inc sells)
got a link for EMS
http://www.madman.co.za/
They seem like an OK thing.
Personally I'd puit it in a centre console (rather than with the speedo etc) otherwise you'd be reacing through the steering wheel to operate the damn thing.
got it, thanks vlad........ MadMan - Home
The three threats you need to deal with are
1. Loss of coolant
2. Loss of system coolant pressure.
3. Lack of good temp drop between top rad hose and bottom.
4. High EGT
5. Insidious loss of boost
Firstly coolant flow rate is the most critical factor – so number one is low coolant alarm which is plumbed into the brass plug on the top of your radiator.
Low coolant alarm will also warn of lack of system pressure – so that is covered. System pressure – about 2 bars – is critical to depress the boiling point and reduce vapour content at the pump inlet – with a 50/50 coolant mix and 100 Celsius. I recall that the vapour content at the inlet can be close to 20% already. You don’t want any more vapour entering the pump leading to cavitation and reduction in flow rate. Low power non turbo engines can use non pressurised systems because the heat rejection is far less. The 300TDi doesn’t have much spare cooling capacity.
Best water temp system is a dual temp gauge – rad inlet/ rad outlet. This tells you how well your radiator is rejecting heat. Plumb a good quality gauge into the top of the 300TDi thermostat housing. My radiator is new so I have omitted the bottom gauge. Dual temp gauges are available and I will fit a bottomone in later.
Regarding the water temp gauge – suggest you get one with an alarm that can be set at any temp you wish – try the racetech ones on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Race-Tech-52mm-Smoke-Stepper-WHITE-Water-Temp-Gauge-/171142118399?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item 27d8dd7bff
These gauges are very accurate( I tested + - 1 degree) and is what I use on my P38 and 300TDi(fast delivery). They also have nice pods to nest the gauges. They do have an annoying start-up noise which tests the integrity of the alarm and stepper sweep. You need to know that the alarms work on startup‼
If you nest their gauges together then each gauge gets power and earth from the next via a supplied connecting wire – I.E fast hookup. The temp thermistor(sensor) is 2 wire which means you can use Teflon tape – most others are single wire and you cannot use Teflon tape as they require ground thu the sensor. They comes with prefab connecting wires from sensor to guage.
EGT gauge is a must – my 300TDi runs only 15psi but EGT can reach 650 degrees – I limit it to 550. Normal EGT is 300-350 and water 85 @ 100km/hr– factory gauge shows slightly under half.
Under load, EGT elevates instantaneously to 550 - 650 degrees Celsius and will stay there. Boost is about 14psi. The head temp immediately rise to 100-105 monitored by TM2. The water follows quickly from 85 to 95. Oil temp rises rapidly thereafter. The factory temp gauge does not move - useless. All my cooling system components are new.
Switch the AC on, maintain the load, and the water temp moves higher very quickly up to 99.
See my post http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1/166363-tdi-300-overheating-problems.html
Boost is very important as if any hose splits or in my case last year at Cape Melville I started having fluctuating boost – car ran OK but has a leak in a manifold pipe. Without boost guage you can have a small leak in the pipe to the fuel pump and not know it.
Probably too much info – but happy to answer any questions.
Great thread thanks folks.
The problem is I can see the $ mounting up.....
mine, i like gauges[ever since i went for a ride in a xj6 jaguar when i was younger]. The water temp is a capilliary non electric type, auber instruments egt and aqualert water level alarm that is plumbed into overflow bottle
So will I need to do these mods when I put the 300tdi into my series 3 ?? :confused: Are these motors unreliable ?? Should I keep the Holden instead :oQuote:
Originally Posted by incisor
Not unreliable - just sensible precautions.