Thread: How on earth do you remove the top 3 bellhousing bolts on a Disco1?

Loosen off front engine mounts, remove transfer case mounts whilst supporting the TC and geabox with a trolley jack or similar and then lower the engine' GB and transfer at the back, will give you enough room to get to the top bellhousing bolts with some extensions from the rear
Nick

The engine/gearbox is front heavy and the back doesn't drop readily even with the cross-member unbolted. I ended up putting a block of wood under the front crank pulley and jacking it up in order to get enough tilt.
Having removed the gearbox I also took the Stanley knife to the sound deadening around the openning of the transmission tunnel to give a bit better spanner clearance.

Have fun

remove rubber engine mounts and let the engine mounts sit steel to steel

Install a 30mm body lift? My RRC has one and the bellhousing bolts aren't too bad to get to.

I do it like Nick S. My socket extension bars reach from the bolts to behind the LT230.

Originally Posted by Disckombi

The engine/gearbox is front heavy and the back doesn't drop readily even with the cross-member unbolted. I ended up putting a block of wood under the front crank pulley and jacking it up in order to get enough tilt.
Having removed the gearbox I also took the Stanley knife to the sound deadening around the openning of the transmission tunnel to give a bit better spanner clearance.

Have fun

Quote: " I ended up putting a block of wood under the front crank pulley and jacking it up in order to get enough tilt."

It might pay to check whether you have stuffed the front crank dampner, the outer ring is vulcanised to the hub and you may have broken the bond. If the outer ring comes off it can cause a lot of damage, you should not jack, pry or use a puller on the outside ring, hope it's ok, Regards Frank.

Thanks Tank - didn't need much force to get it to tip and been OK for a few thousand K's since but I'll take a close look when I get the chance - currently more focused on bushfires

Cheers