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Thread: Fuel Injection Pump wont prime

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Fuel Injection Pump wont prime

    Hi all
    I have just installed my rebuilt 300tdi into a S1 Disco. having an issue getting fuel into the FIP. Lift pump is fine, I have fuel to the FIP but can't get it through it to the injectors. What am I missing? any assistance greatly appreciated. Is there a bleeder on the pump as I can't find a reference to one.
    cheers shaun

  2. #2
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    Undo the banjo bolt at the top right of the injector pump, hand prime until fuel comes out, tighten and then bleed at the injectors.
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  3. #3
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    and on some motors the ignition needs to be on, to get fuel past the stop solenoid.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  4. #4
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    Have you refitted the wire to the fuel shut off solenoid?

  5. #5
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    As Jboot51 said, make sure that the air is bled out right up to the injection pump. The Bosch VA/VE are a self bleed unit, but you can aid this by looking at the rear body of the pump where the injector lines come out. Find the highest outlet here and follow that line up to the corresponding injector.... (2 from memory). Loosen the line here at the injector. That assists the high pressure side of the pump to expel all its trapped air. Crank the motor until it fires up (should take no longer than 10 sec). Then switch it off as it fires up, and re tighten the loosened injector outlet. If it does not start, there is still an issue further back. Wou should hear an audible click from the fuel shutoff solenoid when you turn the IGN on. If not, there's your problem. Hope that helps. Cheers.
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  6. #6
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    Thumbs up

    Hi guys,
    many thanks for the help. It was the solenoid wire. I checked voltage and it was reading 12.4. Put a test light into it and it barely lit up! ran a wire direct from the battery and we were primed and running inside five minutes. why the voltage is 12.4 and not doing the business is a bit beyond my very basic auto electrical skills so we will be looking into that. I also have an alarm that has a mind of its own and a few other gremlins which may be traced to bad earths I suspect as everyone says this is a common Landy fault. Now we are mobile I can sort the rest of the issues. thanks again, I have found these forums very helpful with a lot of answers already waiting. the couple of times I have needed extra help it has always been forthcoming. see you on the tracks.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shayward View Post
    . why the voltage is 12.4 and not doing the business is a bit beyond my very basic auto electrical skills so we will be looking into that.
    That would indicate a high resistance join somewhere. You can get battery voltage at no load, but once a load is applied the voltage drops right off. Look at connections for corrosion, etc.

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