Thread: School me on this RR master cylinder.

Welcome to the fun of Rangie brakes. That is a master cylinder from about 1983 or so onwards. I know because my manual doesn't have this listed but a slightly later manual did. Here's a picture from this later braking system:



So you can see how both pistons work the front brakes. Some guys here have put Defender calipers on the front of their Range Rover and had to muck about with the brake lines. I THINK, (you'll have to search here), they used the rear piston for the fronts and the front for the rear brakes, leaving out the proportioning valve.

Used up to 1987.
1988 had a 'modern' looking MC & booster.

Thats brilliant, thanks guys. This forum really is a great place to learn.

I was hoping to do away with the proportioning valve, thats good news.

Next question (after I do some reaearch) will be regarding problems with getting coolant flow when rear mounting a radiator, and which heater hoses I can ditch..

On a carbie Rover V8, (I'm not sure about EFI), there are two pipes at the back for the supply and return for the heater. You can bypass the heater with a Ford hose - I can't remember which one offhand - that has a neat U-shaped end that you cut off.

For the rad, I only know that pumping coolant uphill doesn't work too well at all, so running hoses under the car apparently isn't a good idea. (But I just read that somewhere.)

Running coolant hose,s inside the cab is also not a good idea either . At cliff hanger one Navie ended up with serious burns from a burst hose

I've got that one in my 85 RRC. I replaced it with a new one (same type) from the UK a year or so back.
I run defender front calipers, replumbed to single line front and single line rear. I did away with the proportioning valve and the balance front/rear is very good with the bigger front calipers.

The piston bore is the same throughout, I can't recall the internal setup between the pistons and whether this would give the rearmost pistons less area or not.

Originally Posted by Davo

On a carbie Rover V8, (I'm not sure about EFI), there are two pipes at the back for the supply and return for the heater. You can bypass the heater with a Ford hose - I can't remember which one offhand - that has a neat U-shaped end that you cut off.

For the rad, I only know that pumping coolant uphill doesn't work too well at all, so running hoses under the car apparently isn't a good idea. (But I just read that somewhere.)

Cheers, We have the coolant lines running under the car, it was pumping uphill to the block, but nothing on the return hose to the rad. Although this might be just head, as the top of the rad is still the highest point in the system. No fluid coming out of the return side

Maybe an electric water pump needed...

Originally Posted by rangieman

Running coolant hose,s inside the cab is also not a good idea either . At cliff hanger one Navie ended up with serious burns from a burst hose

I'll bet. Ouch. But I don't see why you couldn't do it with shielding. You could run them through steel pipe if you needed to. Though, as I said, I haven't done anything like this, I just remember filing the information away in my head for some reason.



Anyway, here's one I prepared earlier! I'd guess that the rear piston, (on the right here), would be the one to use on the front brakes, since it's the first to move when you push the pedal.