Thread: Rustproofing for the beach

Just a point on Lanolin. It appears to be affected by heat which has its good and bad points.

When the temp gets above 42°C in the shed the lanolin grease changes to a liquid. No doubt the spray form would reduce in viscosity as well. This would be good to get into all of the crevises (sp), but I am not sure if it would all run out on the ground during a hot day.

Everyone on the coast should be OK as its rare to get above 40.

So for all you guys on the coast who want good rust prevention, bring your landy out to western Qld in late January, tip it upside down, liberally apply lanolin in the morning, bake vehicle for 10hrs @ 45°C, right the vehicle just on dark and drive back to the coast during the cool of the night.

Should be right for 5yrs plus I reckon.

Thanks for that Sam, some good info.

Normally is over 35 deg here on a cool day as well.
But up till now I havnt thought about the heat affecting it at all.

Will keep an eye on it.

Originally posted by Sam

So for all you guys on the coast who want good rust prevention, bring your landy out to western Qld in late January, tip it upside down, liberally apply lanolin in the morning, bake vehicle for 10hrs @ 45°C,
Should be right for 5yrs plus I reckon.

Sam,,

you are a dead set legend,,

where do we go to turn our landies upside down??

:wink:

I have owned 3 landies to date and am about to buy another. I found that my series 3 had zero rust in the chassis especially around any mechanical parts, you know that landrovers drip more oil than they burn, well this seems to be a great rust preventative!

I mix about 50 - 50 clean engine oil with diesel and spray this under the vehicle lightly but evenly over and through any steel parts. Some common sense is required especially near brake parts, rubber, and electrical parts.

I do this one week before I go on the beach and when I return I do not high pressure hose the vehicle. It seems unnatural to force sand and salt into areas - just hose well. Let it all dry out for another week and then ligtly re-oil again. I use an engine degreaser gun with an air compressor but any sprayer is good. A mate of mine uses a garden type sprayer with good success.

The greenies may cringe at the thought that oil may pollute the environment but what cost would it be to have rusty vehicles about?

Well this works for me. Fraser Island would not be the same without landies!

8)

I think Barry's summed it up. If you have a real Land Rover, they come with factory fitted self lubricating chassis 8) (aka oil leaks).

Barrys idea of sump oil and deisel works well. Drive the Land Rover on a dusty road after you've sprayed it and the dust will stick to the oil creating a tacky paste barrier. After your trip spray under the car with 2-3 cans of oven cleaner , then rinse off (personally I use high pressure :roll: ). Squirting your sump oil into the chassis rails (in moderation) is also a good preservative :wink: .

I always do them with Tectyle thinned with white spirit for all the cavities and joints in engine bay. Then spray the outside of the under carrige with either Tectyle mixed with quick dry black enamel or Septone under body rust proofing (which I think is Septone rust wax mixed with black enamel). You can buy a rust proofing/splater gun from any refinishing suppier for about $40, if you have a compressor your laughing. It was a rep for septone who put me on to the black enamel mix he reckons that's what most rust proof mobs do. You need to drill the holes in the sill a bit bigger to get the hose in.

Would have to agree with all that, though just add you'll never get 100% protection unless you go to gal. dipping. Normally only done at rebuild, the chassis, bulkhead and frame work of doors, hood and wheel rims are sand blasted, then whipped off to the gal. factory for a good coat of shine. If the factory is on the ball there is no or little warp afterwards and is the ultimate as everywhere gets a coating. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Whatever preventive is used it needs to be absorbed into the steel and I'm not sure many suggested do that. Most "oils" I would think would wash off in the rain, dust or gravel during daily driving let alone when the vehicle is cleaned after the beach so will begin rusting either way. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]

My suggestion is a good wash and if really worried lift the body off and get the mentioned gal'd. There's a gal factory in Brisbane near Meeandah or Pinkenbar, forgotten exactly where, if you want to get a quote.

tectyl from the aerosol can works great,,,

half a dozen cans would just about cover it,( :wink: )