Does that mean that you will not be able to fit the rears on the front or vice versa?
Printable View
Does that mean that you will not be able to fit the rears on the front or vice versa?
Correct, i'll do all four but for now just 2 so they can fit on the front.
I'm not quite in Melbourne, about an hour out the other side from you. My lathe will swing a 16" wheel but I'll have to check if the chuck jaws will go wide enough, previously to hold a rim I have mounted a hub in the chuck jaws and bolted the wheel to the hub. Your job won't work with that method as the hub would be right where you want to bore.
I'll have a look when I get a chance and see if the chuck will grip the rim, then you can decide whether it's worth the drive.
This is what the rear of the rims look like, there is a lip at the front and the rear of the hub bore. I dont have any verniers but as the hub cap is slightly tapered i might get away with just opening up the rear lip.
I've just had a trial with a 16" steel rim and I can mount it on (rather than in) the chuck with the jaws on the inside of the rim, so the rim goes over the chuck and the jaws expand to contact the inner surface of the wheel. Looking at your photo, that might be a problem with your rims as they appear to have a continuous taper on the inside rear of the barrel. Is there any parallel area in the rear of the barrel where they could be gripped from inside? Doesn't look like it in the photo. My chuck won't expand enough to grip the outer rim, won't reach in to that inner hub part either.
They should be done with a face plate or 4 jaw chuck if done on a lathe.You can then centre them with a dial gauge off the original register bore
AM