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Thread: Threaded Inserts

  1. #1
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    Threaded Inserts

    Where can you buy threaded inserts??

    Today working on an engine I stripped the thread in an aluminium head in an inlet manifold stud. On pulling it out I found it had previously been damaged and repaired with a threaded insert.

    I previously tried to get some threaded inserts about 12 months ago and all the nut an bolt shops as well as engineering supply shops I tried in and around Canberra only carried helicoils and in fact some shops did not even know what a threaded insert was.

    On this head I have, because a threaded insert has been used, when I drill out the broken threads to tap in a new thread the hole will be much larger in diameter than the required stud making a helicoil not much use and the use of a threaded insert the way to go.

    So as indicated any ideas where I might get these from.

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
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  2. #2
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    Cat dealer

    Your local Cat dealer will have them

  3. #3
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    If it's only one and you're in a hurry, make one. Tap the hole to whatever convenient oversize bolt you've got, drill and tap the centre of said bolt to the thread you need. Cut off the tapped bit and install with loctite 243. Works best on lower tension grades of bolt but is still stronger than the alloy.

  4. #4
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    depends on what sort of insert your after,

    if a helicoil has been inserted incorrectly or damaged there is a proper removal tool for them which 9/10 leaves the original oversize thread ready for a nw helicoil.

    if your;re going to go for one of the screw in and lock type inserts (threaded on the outside and the inside and has top collar to hold it) be very careful with it. they are generally about 4mm larger than the normal thread and some spots on the rover heads will fail once you drill it out and wind it in. If you dont insert it properly they have been known to work themselves loose and in some instances will sit proud of the face and prevent the manifold from sitting flush on the gasket.
    Dave

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    depends on what sort of insert your after,

    if a helicoil has been inserted incorrectly or damaged there is a proper removal tool for them which 9/10 leaves the original oversize thread ready for a nw helicoil.

    if your;re going to go for one of the screw in and lock type inserts (threaded on the outside and the inside and has top collar to hold it) be very careful with it. they are generally about 4mm larger than the normal thread and some spots on the rover heads will fail once you drill it out and wind it in. If you dont insert it properly they have been known to work themselves loose and in some instances will sit proud of the face and prevent the manifold from sitting flush on the gasket.
    Thanks Dave - we are taking the later type not helicoil. It is the threaded insert that pulled out of the head not the stud out of the insert.





    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
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    Got a lathe or a friend with one? Make a stud with one end oversize to suit whatever you tap the head to.
    URSUSMAJOR

  7. #7
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    Thanks to all for the pointers.

    The original stud is M8 and the insert was M10 so the next metric size is M12 (looked at 9/16 UNC bit was a tad too small) looked as if it was doable with still about 2.5mm around the hole. Bought a couple of M12 1.5 bolts and tapped the hole in the head to take the bolt - all seemed to go OK.

    Went up to my neighbour who has a lathe and turned down one end of the bolt to take an M8 thread(the other M12 end will go into the head. When we came to cut the M8 thread it was hard going and with the M12 end in the lathe chuck, the stud turned and damaged the M12 thread which needs to be perfect to hold in the head.

    The bolt I got was high tensile and hand thread cutting was hard work. I just assume the old stud was high tensile but does an inlet manifold stud really need to be high tensile as it really doesn't carry much load?

    So back to the drawing board and tomorrow buy a non hi tensile bolt and do the same as we did today or instead of making a new M12/M8 stud just make a new M12/M8 insert and use the M8 stud I have.

    So does an inlet manifold stud need to be hi tensile if it does not carry much weight.

    Oh this is no on a Rover engine but a Vw style engine.

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
    Davehoos Guest
    Last job at strut regas we had thread adaptors made to allow use to get the correct lengths or sizes for replacement gas springs. not hi-tensile but very easy to find in a big city


    work has box of metric and imperial CAT inserts. I recently used a 1/2 bolt to replace a exhaust manifold stud on a Honda compressor motor.


    had a rep selling a drill, tap and insert unit , was flogging tubes of glues and potions.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Thanks to all for the pointers.

    The original stud is M8 and the insert was M10 so the next metric size is M12 When we came to cut the M8 thread it was hard going and with the M12 end in the lathe chuck, the stud turned and damaged the M12 thread which needs to be perfect to hold in the head.

    Thanks

    Garry
    There are 11 mm x 1.5 taps and dies available but too late for you.

    Get a piece of hex bar long enough to sit and grip properly in a three jaw chuck. Drill and tap it to the thread on the stud end, screw the stud in and then cut the 8 mm thread. Are you screw cutting or using a die? I should have mentioned this first up but I tend to forget I am not preaching to fitter-machinists.
    URSUSMAJOR

  10. #10
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    Your right no need for ht bolts on an intake did you try baxters?

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