Thread: Bullbar high mount modification

Much of the strength comes from the horizontal plate below the winch.

The line pull is transferred from the winch into the front vertical plate (front of bull bar where winch bolts on), then to the horizontal plate and finally into both chassis rails.

Keep the winch as close to the horizontal plate as possible, and provide gussets between the horizontal plate and the vertical plate as close as possible to the winch, extending a little higher than the top mounting bolts and about as far back.

Keep the winch as far back as you can, I would sink it through the grill.

Use an Albright solenoid instead of the Warn controller and mount it onto the end of the motor to keep the electrical cables short.

Sorry about quality of this pic, but it shows all of the above. Note how the gusset, on both sides of he winch, angle back to tie into the chassis rails and stiffen the horizontal plate (not visible).

Here are some better pics

From Gigglepin site:


Edit: note dumb irons trimmed back for better approach angle



The winch cradle in both pics above are based upon this one from Devon44

Ideal for project builders and DIY mechanics who want to mount a winch in places where an off-the-shelf mount won't go !
Made from 8mm steel, with a 5mm base plate, this winch cage is supplied in bare steel, ready to weld or bolt into place.
Drilled and slotted to accept a Warn 8274 winch.
Fits between the chassis rails of a Land Rover
610mm wide x 212mm deep x 190mm tall

Thats almost the identical bar I have on my 90. Mine is the D44 competition high mount one. and a slightly earlier version with the plate recovery eyes.

Both the pics put up by Bush65 are Devon4x4 bars. you can see the d44 logo on both.

Here is mine from when I first fitted it, before I trimmed the dumb irons. Bear in mind that all of the bars shown sit above the chassis rails and the base plate of the winch area actually also bolts through the front chassis crossmember.



after trimming:

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

Thats almost the identical bar I have on my 90. Mine is the D44 competition high mount one. and a slightly earlier version with the plate recovery eyes.

Both the pics put up by Bush65 are Devon4x4 bars. you can see the d44 logo on both.

Here is mine from when I first fitted it, before I trimmed the dumb irons. Bear in mind that all of the bars shown sit above the chassis rails and the base plate of the winch area actually also bolts through the front chassis crossmember.



after trimming:

Been a while since its looked like that Nice trailer btw.

Nice! Thanks so much guys that is exactly the sort of thing I was thinking. I won't be able to have it so close in unfortunately because of my intercooler.. but it should only stick out an extra 30-40mm.

flagg, while you are at, make provision to drain/change the oil in the gearbox of your winch.

If not already fitted, add drain and fill plugs to the gear case.

Provide an access hole in the horizontal plate of the winch cradle so that you can remove the drain plug.

so its been a long time but eventually I got some time to make it. here are some photos. I had issues setting fire to everything with the angle grinder so i got a plasma cutter.... best thing ever!



I made up the cradle using quater inch plate (as per warn recommendation)



Cut out the centre of the old bull bar



and melted it all together. I did 3 runs, all with my TIG @ 230A. a bit hotter than needed but I wanted 100% penetration.



had the whole lot powder coated with the side steps and rear bar.



The winch has about 20mm clearance to the intercooler radiator and the front sticks out about 50mm past what it used too. The approach angle is the same as it was before. The base plate is bolted to the chassis and welded to the original bull bar mounts that are also bolted at the same point (sandwiched them together, so the mounts are a half inch think).

also, you can't see it, but under the gear housing is a cut out for an oil drain

some closer shots