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Thread: Rear Crossmember

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bundaberg, Queensland
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    Rear Crossmember

    Anyone changed/fitted a rear crossmember before on a Series III?

    If yes, did you need to take the whole rear tub off or just lift it high enough to complete the welding onto the chassis?

    Just looking for any hints, as we are going to get cracking pretty soon.

    *Easy alternatives prefered*

    Cheers,
    Cul

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    N Qld,
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    Helped Strang rover do his SII shorty.
    He took the hole rear tub of to do the job.
    I think if you did not take the tub of you would
    have a hell of a time welding the top of the chassis rail.


    If you do a job do it right.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bundaberg, Queensland
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    Yeah have been thinking the same thing.
    Don't really have access to anything that will lift the tub off....(easily) other than sheer manpower.
    Will have more of a think about it and come up with some options...

    Thanks for the info mate.

    Regards,
    Cul

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
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    A two door 109 tub should not be that heavy after taking off ROPS, canvas and hoops. 3 blokes should be able to lift it off without much trouble. I have an FFR tub sitting in the yard I move around from one inconvenient place to another. I also removed the capping to make it lighter. It will become a great camper trailer body one day.

    Also, taking the tub off provides a good opportunity to check out the top of the chassis rails for rust damage.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    CROMER, NSW
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    i had a rust problem in the bottom of the angled bits on the ends of my rear cross member. as i have a truck-cab, it's not easy to remove the whole body, so i got some 4mm gal rectangular tube, fabricated a channel to fit the chunk i ground out of the cross member and slotted it in to the vacant spot in the chassis. mt mate did the welding for me and apart from the absence of the standard holes in that part of the chassis, it looks like the real thing and it's a bit strongewr than original.
    i also took the precaution of including a drain/washout hole at the lowest point so i can remove the muck easier.
    LAND ROVER;
    HELPING PUT OIL BACK IN THE GROUND FOR 70 YEARS
    CARS DON'T GET ANY "GREENER" THAT.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bundaberg, Queensland
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    Thanks for the info guys.
    Well the time has come to start work.... had my mate over yesterday for a good look and we have designed a "plan of attack" and I have a few days to get the tub completely off, so when he comes round on Saturday with his Mig Welder and all the other toys, we can get started!

    Will be taking photos throughout the "Surgical Operation" so fingers crossed [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

    Regards,
    Cul

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bundaberg, Queensland
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    Update

    Just an update:
    Got the tub completely off today with some great help from my dad.
    Lifted it up high enough to get a block of timber underneath from side to side, and when all was clear.... just rolled the landrover forward and free from the suspended tub.

    Definately will make it much easier to access the crossmember and to do a decent job of the welding.

    Chassis looks really good actually. Perfect opportunity to give the whole rear section a good clean and repaint before the tub gets put back on.

    Keep you posted.

    Cul

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