Thread: Wheel nuts and anti seize

yes I use loctite silver but nickle or copper will work just as well.

dont go too heavy and dont use a rattlegun.

Awesome, thanks Dave. I've got some Nulon and Tefgel in the shed.

No I won't use a rattle gun, old school or torque wrench when I buy the correct size socket.

Mick

don't use copper anti-seize on aluminium. Loctite Nickel is the best all round anti-seize.

What reason would there be to not use an anti-seize on wheel studs ?

Originally Posted by 87County

What reason would there be to not use an anti-seize on wheel studs ?

That was the reason why I asked the question here. I had read on a forum, who knows where I'm on a few .

The reason posted was that with antiseize on nuts/bolts/threads that are torqued (as a wheel nut should be) they claimed that with antiseize on it can lessen the resistance and the torque applied could actually be more than the same nut/bolt/thread torqued to the same spec without antisieze

I'm no engineer so have no idea..........but knew I would get an answer here.

EDIT Just for s***s and giggles, google 'Anti seize on wheel studs' when you've got nothing better to do, thats how I found some of the differing opinions.

Mick.

Copper stuff on the hub and threads...

M

not that I know anything about torqueing things up,
but
in the real world,
the torque specification is given as a dry torque or a wet torque.


I do not know the Land Rover torque figures, but the difference between wet and dry could mean you shear a fastener,
probably not good to loose a wheel.


most car manuals I have read do not mention wet or dry[lubricated ] threads, so I would stick with dry.

As Brian said, copper anti-seize will react with an aluminium wheel and the wheel will corrode! The nickel based one is better for aluminium.

An easy way to test if anti-seize increases the torque too much, is too tighten a bolt so that it clamps two plates together and mark with a felt pen a place on the hex connecting to the top plate. Do it dry first and then remove the bolt and lubricate it with oil and tighten it to the same torque - observe where the marks end up. Repeat the test with anti-seize as the lubricant. Then decide whether it suits your style

I have been using the nickel anti-seize on my alloys and threads without having anything break, or corrode since 2002,

Cheers Charlie