Thread: Wheel nuts and anti seize

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Given the shape of the wheel nut, the copper in anti-seize on threads should not be in contact with the alloy so will not cause any electrolysis.

Exactly what I was thinking.

Use anti-sieze on the threads only. Not the mating surfaces of anything.

would it not just be safer to not use the copper based stuff? seriously have you all never had a little bit ooze out here and there....

since we dont know what rim hes using, not really

if hes got a series III or a tdi defender or a D1 or a rangie with steelies he could use almost any type of thread lube without any problems. (while he does say hes got a ninety thats not really useful as they did come out in both the tdi2/300 vrients with steelies and steelies can be retrofitted to the td5 90 s well)

highlighting not using copper on ally is valid for people with ally rims, if you use the loctite/antisieze in the correct manner there is no throwing out of the goop so the principle of using it on the thread of the stud then winding the nut on is still sound, but most people dont do that they slather it on in spades and then smear it around the shoulder and under the washer. Which in an of itself isnt really a problem if you use a compatible compound, it just happens to be that copper and ally tend to no be friends if you leave them around each other long enough.

Its a MY12 90 with the dual finish alloys.

Tefgel – Corrosion Eliminator & Anti Seize Lubricant is an anti seize anti corrosion anti galling.

I had originally bought the tefgel for mounting items of dissimilar metals on my boat but also use it on electrical wires prior to crimping terminals on and to stop galling on stainless bolts. I have also used on the camper and boat trailer wheel studs with no dramas. Basically everything they show on the website. I use a tiny amount, not slathered on, on the studs.

I'm thinking of a VERY small amount on the barrel of the wheel nut (and stud) thin smear and then actually wipe (lightly) off where it comes into contact with the alloy rim as this is where electrolysis will start and I live on the coast. Or is it going to create issues between the barrel and the rim, I wouldn't put it, on the face so to speak where the nut puts pressure onto the rim though, just on the barrel side.

Mick

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

since we dont know what rim hes using, not really

if hes got a series III or a tdi defender or a D1 or a rangie with steelies he could use almost any type of thread lube without any problems. (while he does say hes got a ninety thats not really useful as they did come out in both the tdi2/300 vrients with steelies and steelies can be retrofitted to the td5 90 s well)

highlighting not using copper on ally is valid for people with ally rims, if you use the loctite/antisieze in the correct manner there is no throwing out of the goop so the principle of using it on the thread of the stud then winding the nut on is still sound, but most people dont do that they slather it on in spades and then smear it around the shoulder and under the washer. Which in an of itself isnt really a problem if you use a compatible compound, it just happens to be that copper and ally tend to no be friends if you leave them around each other long enough.

**** Dave, did you even read the first post by the OP.....

(edited and deleted some strange double post thing happened)

Originally Posted by uninformed

**** Dave, did you even read the first post by the OP.....

Yep just missed part of it the phones not the best thing for forum browsing.

Originally Posted by uninformed

would it not just be safer to not use the copper based stuff? seriously have you all never had a little bit ooze out here and there....

How much anti-seize do you use if you're getting ooze and then worrying if it will migrate several inches from the stud to the wheel.

Personally I use minimal on the stud, so little I'm surely not going to drive down to the engineering suppliers or autoparts store to get nickle or silver based product when I have numerous pots or tubes of copper based product in my various tool kits and nut/bolt index boxes.

If you're that worried about the copper, I'd assume that you have removed the stainless steel caps on the alloy wheel nuts, the SS would be much closer to the alloy than my copper based anti-seize will ever get.