Thread: Landie Spring packs

Wayne there is some truth in what you have heard/read .....in short.

Leafs in a spring are a static length and scribe an arc, as the arc flattens under load the distance bettween the "tips" of each leaf lenghtens, and shorten as load comes off . (Due to all leafs being secured to the main leaf by the centre bolt, also the centre bolt has a clamping action on the spring assembly, this induces a pre tension into the spring assembly that assists with spring damping because each leaf is a different length it has a different frequency and tries to cancel out the ossilations of its neighbour. The centre bolt also locates the spring assembly in the axle housing with the "U" bolts securing it)

Each leaf is of a different fixed length and scribes a different arc, with suspension movement the leafs have a "sliding or rubbing" action against each other that also has to overcome the friction between the leafs, the exception is the main leaf its change of arc is compensated by the rear shackle. In a new or relative new spring assembly action between the leafs is quiet "free" with low friction and gives good ride an articulation .

Over time the friction can dramatically increase due to a number of factors including mud, grime, rust and water between the leafs this can cause the spring to partly "freeze up" in affect giving a stiffer ride and restricting articulation. By praising open the leaf bands it allows the leafs to "open up" as the suspension load comes off, the more the suspension travels down the more they "open up", this assists in removing some of this build up between the leafs and in turn remove some of the friction and restore some of the ride and articulation.
The best example are boat trailers in salt water, after a short time their springs are almost welded up with rust. Some vehicle manufactures have endeavoured to over come the problem , some in the past have fitted canvas covers to the springs in more recent times nylon discs are fitted between the leafs, some people open the leafs and oil them. By the time this becomes a problem generally the springs have began to sag this increases load and friction on the leaf tips, best remedy is fit new springs.
Hope this goes some way to explaining your question.
Joatt

Thanks for the post Joatt. Never having delved into the world of springs packs I found what you said really helpful!

The question remains though - is it an option to remove the clamps?

I was worried about sideways movement etc but this acticle (which was in a good magazine that I seen before) reckons that there isn't an issue with movement sideways - just movement up and down - which makes it all much better.

They also said , like you mentioned, about oiling the leaves to reduce friction which prolonged the life of them.

I have a feeling that I'm gonna take them clamps off and see what happens!! 8O Under controlled conditions of course!

I might do a couple of pics like before and after and let you know how the ride changed. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

I've heard people talk about oiling leeaves, but the general consensus was that it SHORTENED the life of the leaves. Why? Because the oil soon attracted dust and mud which would clog up the leaves and wear them out faster (like putting sandpaper between the leaves). Also heard the same thing about grease.

I'm not sure if bending out the clamps would make that much difference. Maybe a phone call to the local springs place would reveal some answers (try king, not pedders).

I havn't found that articulation with my leaves has been a problem, on my last outing I think I only lifted a wheel once, and nobody else (Hilux, Discovery & Challenger) managed not to lift a wheel in the same hole.

That said, my ride is very stiff, let us know how you go [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

G'day Phoenix,
I agree with what you said about the life of the springs being shortened because of oil attracting grit etc, which is why the clamp option seems to make more sense.
I reckon that freeing the clamps will make the ride smoother because the packs can flex much easier.

If it takes the harshness out of the ride and the bounce then that has to be a cheaper alternative to a parabolic change over? Make a long trip a lot more enjoyable don't you think.

I start my days off now so I'll get on to it and let you know. I'll either be saying what a great idea it is or looking for spring packs! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

I should try and get over to your part of the World over this next week as well. Went to Samsons and picked up a desk for the boy the other week in the Landie which was her longest trip to date. Went well! I went via Exeter on the way there which was a nice ramble and tried the highway on the way back. Those Rangie diffs sure do make a difference!

cheers! 8)

Quit teasing me, haven't got my overdrive in yet [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]

The only downside to easing the clams off that I can see would be an increase in body roll on road. Don't know how much difference it would make. If you are about my way drop me an e-mail or a PM and we can meet up for a bit [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Wayne
Initally I would not remove the leaf bands, you should be able to bend them back far enough to get an idea if it is of benefit (as long as they don't fowl on any thing) I agree with the boys oil/grease has the potential to attract and hold dirt etc and create premature wear but look at the other side , how long does a set of springs last?..... years(baring breakages) Keen to hear how it goes.
Joatt

I'm not sure if this fits the topic, but years ago some
trucks were fitted with Nylon or Teflon sheets inbetween
the spring leaves. They were shaped like an "I" section
Obviously acting as some sort of friction reducer.

I havnt seen anything like it for awhile now ?

Davo

Hi all [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
When I rebuilt "Aggie" my 68 , 2a GS in 1992 I was not in the position to buy new springs, so I rebuilt my own,by stripping them down and cleaning them with a wire brush on an anglegrinder, then I lightly ground down the wear groves in the underside of the leaves, I then champhored the ends of the leaves (they are guiliteened in mass production) 1/16 in champhor and radiused the corners 1/8-3/32 in, they were then painted with chassis black (several Coats) new standard rubber /steel bushes and refitted, DO NOT TIGHTEN BUSHES UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS LOWERED. preferably a slow drive up and down the driveway or around the block, mine have been in for 12 yearsand are only justgetting tired [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] To do this all you will need is an angle grinder,grinder brush cup type(TKC166TB-1 for Markita) grinding disc, chassis black, new spring bushes 4 per axle, (can be pressed in by garage if you havn't equipt.) SAFETY GOOGLES. ops: :wink:
Bung-Tiddley [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]