Track rod

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Originally posted by Kretcheman
riiight... I know the one you're talking about. :oops: Thanks.

On another matter, what would cause scrubbing out on the inside of both rear tyres?

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Only my opinion as I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but I'd look at the big rubber triangles on the rear radial arms where they joins the chassis rail, these wear. They keep the rear diff assembly in alignment attaching the chassis to the rear diff assembly. I think they cost about $42 each side to replace from Karcraft at Silverwater and do the bushes that bolt onto diff side as well.

Also not a bad idea to get laser alignment from someone like Carline. They get back & front working together.

Hope this helps & maybe someone who knows for sure can give accurate assessment.

Thanks mate. I'll check it out next time i'm under it. I've gotta do shocks and bushes anyway, so I might do it all together.

Wheel alignment will definately be getting done too. after all the suspension work obviously.

On a kind of unrelated matter, I think I've got a loose/cactus front wheel bearing. Is it a tough job? I've only ever tightened one, not replaced one and that wasn't on a rangie. Are they a press in job? I've already got the replacement part, but they may have been sitting for a while. Do the bearings go off with age?

Cheers, and sorry for post hijacking. this prolly should be a new one.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Kretcheman
Thanks mate. I'll check it out next time i'm under it. I've gotta do shocks and bushes anyway, so I might do it all together.

Wheel alignment will definately be getting done too. after all the suspension work obviously.

On a kind of unrelated matter, I think I've got a loose/cactus front wheel bearing. Is it a tough job? I've only ever tightened one, not replaced one and that wasn't on a rangie. Are they a press in job? I've already got the replacement part, but they may have been sitting for a while. Do the bearings go off with age?

Cheers, and sorry for post hijacking. this prolly should be a new one.

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No not a hard job, be sure to replace oil seal, you'll need to get bearings out (there are two) its not a good idea to use old seal. Not a press job, drift old one out and tap new in with large socket or the like gently until all the way home. Bearings as long as they stay in grease paper shouln't "go off", if unwrapped may rust a little if dry but would clean up when regreased. Use very good quality bearing grease. Oh yeh get a new lock washer as well wouldn't hurt only a buck.

Good idea if you can borrow a dial guage to be spot on when tightning, also get proper lock nut tube spanner (Repco should have) much easier to tighten precisely than big multi grip thingo, but not nesseccary to have dial guage.

Can email complete workshop manual for a defender, bearings the same and so is break down on diagram or just those pages for bearing if you wish, send PM with email if want. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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Originally posted by RoverOne+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RoverOne)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Kretcheman
Was yours a front or rear rod?

Are we talking about lower control arms or a different component?

Cheers,

Bryan

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The 'track rod' is at the front, connected to the wheel gear ( can't remember correct term) by ball joints, its the one they adjust for toe in and toe out aligning the wheels.[/b][/quote]

Correct [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] - the track rod is located behind the front diff (usually has your sterring dampener mounted to it from the diff centre). It has a tie rod (ball joint) on each end mounted to the rear of the steer knucle that is over the swivel hubs [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

You can take it of and remove both tie rods and the dampener bracket then you can sleeve it with a length of pipe and replace the tie rods and customise the dampener bracket to suit.
NOTE: the sleeved pipe must be shorter as you need to be able to tighten the clamps for the tie rod on each end of the track rod.

This generall means the weakest parts of the rod are right at the ends, so it can still bend [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] if you hit it hard enough but the closer to the centre of the track bar you go the easier it is to bend and this part is covered so you should be all good [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] i will stop yabering on now [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]


Anthony

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Originally posted by AnthonyParra


Correct :D - the track rod is located behind the front diff (usually has your sterring dampener mounted to it from the diff centre).

Anthony

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:? - Normally the are mounted to the chasis at one end and then to your steering arm (running from box to knuckle)

This is as i remember it form county / defender but may be different for Disco / Rangie


Dave [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

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Originally posted by DaveS3+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DaveS3)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-AnthonyParra


Correct :D - the track rod is located behind the front diff (usually has your sterring dampener mounted to it from the diff centre).

Anthony

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:? - Normally the are mounted to the chasis at one end and then to your steering arm (running from box to knuckle)

This is as i remember it form county / defender but may be different for Disco / Rangie


Dave [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img][/b][/quote]

Guys,

Whats in a name. :?:

[b]The track rod or draglink should not have the damper attached at all. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ohmy.gif[/img]
The cross rod infact (which is located in front of the Diff) has the shock (damper) attached from the drop arm to the chassis for <span style="color:red">Defender</span>

Having thought a bit more about it I looked up my old two-door Rangie manual and indeed they called track rod that having the shock attached to it as per Daves description, but not for Defender (County could be different it was more Stage One) no shock attached guys. The manual also named the cross rod of the Defender as a Track Rod also the vehicle (Rangie) then having TWO TRACK RODS :?:

Wish I new how to load on a picture.

:? even more :?:

I always understood the rod joining the steering box to the wheels being referred to as the Drag Link and the rod joining the two wheels together referred to as the Track Rod. Certainly that's the way the workshop manuals for 90/110s and Defenders refer to it.

http://www.aulro.com/albums/album117...link.sized.jpg


Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Thanks RoverOne!...

Steering Arm = Drag Link (more technically correct term, i just forgot it!)

Dave [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Quote:

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Originally posted by Defender200Tdi
I always understood the rod joining the steering box to the wheels being referred to as the Drag Link and the rod joining the two wheels together referred to as the Track Rod. Certainly that's the way the workshop manuals for 90/110s and Defenders refer to it.

http://www.aulro.com/albums/album117...link.sized.jpg


Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

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You are right Paul, my factory workshop manual refers as you say to the Track Rod the one joining the wheels (it also says in one of the chapters "the Track Rod or Steering Arm". They refer to the drag link as the "Cross Rod Assembly" a term I've not heard before.

There is no print date on the manual but was printed in Australia by Bookworks with the cooperation of Land Rover Solihul.

I've got the electronic version as you have shown in diagram, the book is much more descriptive and has better viewing diagrams also, the book breaks down every washer, nut etc in exploded view also. Its much easier with the electronic version as you can print off just the page you are working on saving the $150 book.

Actually its good to work with both you get two totaly different angles of the job to be done. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]