Purchased my first discovery, what should I expect to go wrong first :-)

Does it have any rust under the front carpet or in the luggage area?

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Originally Posted by joshhill31

Thanks for the advice guys, gives me an idea of things to look at. A cooling system service and check was going to be first on the agenda. Just a quick question, the temperature guage on the dash always reads a little over half way, it never goes any further but is this normal?

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Like I said below , there's been a real good thread onthe d1 page how and what goes on with the temp gauge , and the digital unit that could save your motor..I forced mine to 98deg yesterday ,36 deg air temp big hill and air cond flat out the digital gauge showed 98 deg and the std gauge never budged from it usual 1/2 way point..Gary

No rust discomick and carpets seem dry, although it's been a while since I saw a cloud or rain. The plastic plenum directly under the windscreen is cracked though, so whether it'll stay that way through winter is another question.

Temp gauge on Disco is controled by computer don't trust it as it wil lead to tears put in after market gauges then you will get a better idea of what the car is doing.

As per many threads, basically temp gauge stays reading in the middle until your engine is about to cook and its too late to do anthing about it then jumps. LR should be prosecuted for that gauge! Replace it with a proper non LR one that works.

Another vote for the after market temp. gauge. Engine saver low coolant alarm essential as well, IMO. Bob

I got one too a few months back. It was cheap, and I got what I paid for. Check the following:

XYZ Sensor (assuming yours is Auto) - Not sure if they rectified the issue on the later cars but the Air Con drain pipe lets out onto the switch, eventually causing it to malfunction.

Check trans. fluid.

Roof Leaks. Mine had the Land Rover bulletined gutter cracks at the leading end where the gutter meets the top of the windscreen. The cracks are visible to the naked eye and only need to be cleaned out and filled with quality sealant.

Check diff. fluids.

Check rear chassis for rust. I thought I'd done a good job before handing over money. But the rust was deceptive. Admittedly I'm in a far worse climate than you.

Do not hurt your front bumper. They cost a fortune (relatively speaking)

Rear wiper motor/mech. can dry up and seize. But easy to free and grease.

Tailgate seal can leak too, but again, the door is easy to adjust.

Not sure if the petrol models have a water in fuel sensor on the fuel filter, but this has plastic threads which are often rung. Replace like for like or simply tuck the wire and connection up out of harms way and replace sensor with the standard drain plug. My filter needed changing in the field, and only then did I realise the previous owner had wrecked the senor threads. The new filter came with the standard plug which was great. I left the sensor in the wiring connector to keep the connector's terminals clean in the interim.

Another water related one you prob won't have to deal with is the scuttle panel under the bonnet/wipers. It's a little too flat in design and water/crud can gather there.

Other than that, I could only advise on diesel model issues. But do keep and eye (and ear) out for the front prop health.

Oh and educate yourself on "the three amigos".

It's a good car, I swear.

There are a couple of plastic plugs in the top of the cooling system which ae one-use only. Replacement brass ones ae widely available and cheap, so a good idea.

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Thanks for all the input guys.

Took her in for a coolant system flush/ service and general health check on Friday and her filled with the recommended red penrite coolant. The garage I used were highly recommended and although they were pushed for time did, the mechanic had a general look over and told me to keep an eye on a small power steering pump leak. Nothing too major though he thought.
Also ordered a multigauge from America, that should arrive next week so I can keep an eye on temps etc. looks like a nice bit of kit, anybody had any positive or negative experience with them.
Other than that we're going well. No leaks Shackleton, but then I haven't had the chance to test it in rain yet :-)

Hi there
My advice is
Don't rely on your temp gauges there not accurate, get some quality window pilar mount gauges with warning lights(temp and oil pressure) are a must have for V8.. The engine watchdog won't read oil pressure, only temps..

Your engine temp should be around 90-98C when hot, thermo kicks in at 98.

Remove and replace plugs and leads with platinum plugs and 8mm HT leads. You will need to remove the plenum intake to get to coil pack 30mins work.

While you have the intake off remove rocker covers to inspect and clean carbon build up and replace gaskets.

Remove timing cover no need to remove water pump as it s bolted to cover. Remove oil pump cover, make alignment marks on oil pump gears, remove pump gears to check for cracks as there's a good chance they are cracked. Replace timing cover crankshaft seal. This requires sump removal, check your oil pickup for blockage, clean everything as you go, lock tite is required.

Replace O2 sensors, exhaust flange gaskets and check header bolts for tightness.

This is what I would start checking , all up around a days work but don't rush it.
Just stick to the overhaul manual and torque specs, tightening sequence and you shouldn't have any probs as these engines are simple to work on. good luck Attachment 74003