Thread: What's the consensus on.........

i engage every time i hit gravel.....car feels a whole lot more secure

plus there is a good chance i'm towing a 1.3T camper trailer which probably increase the chances wheel spin (ever so slight low of traction i.e. driver would not even be aware)

Not fond of permanent 4x4 - would prefer part time, with option of engaging centre diff, and then locking if necessary. With the part timers (series LR and Tojo) most stuff you could plough through in 2x4 and engage when likely to get stuck. No worrying about 'exploding' centre diff, or axle torque if locked on 'hardish' surfaces.

Found myself in similar situation as described by tact - ascending slippery clay covered side slope track in old Toyota when stopped due to loss of forward traction in 4x4 mode. Front and rear wheels stuck in slight runnels crossing road to the sloped side (very steep mountain hillside).

Every attempt to reverse in 4x4 failed. Front were getting marginally better grip than rear, but not enough to back out of runnels. Every attempt saw nose of vehicle move closer to steep slope, taking rear end with it. Only solution was to disengage 4x4 leaving the front with no drive and the rear traction dominating proceedings.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Not fond of permanent 4x4 - would prefer part time, with option of engaging centre diff, and then locking if necessary. With the part timers (series LR and Tojo) most stuff you could plough through in 2x4 and engage when likely to get stuck. No worrying about 'exploding' centre diff, or axle torque if locked on 'hardish' surfaces.

Exploding centre diffs aren't that common. I can't think of any off-road or on-road situation where 2wd is better than full-time. But there are many where full-time unlocked is ideal and 2wd doesn't cut it.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Found myself in similar situation as described by tact - ascending slippery clay covered side slope track in old Toyota when stopped due to loss of forward traction in 4x4 mode. Front and rear wheels stuck in slight runnels crossing road to the sloped side (very steep mountain hillside).

Every attempt to reverse in 4x4 failed. Front were getting marginally better grip than rear, but not enough to back out of runnels. Every attempt saw nose of vehicle move closer to steep slope, taking rear end with it. Only solution was to disengage 4x4 leaving the front with no drive and the rear traction dominating proceedings.

Sounds like full-time 4wd would have helped.

On flat dry gravel I do not lock the center diff, that way I feel safer through the corners.
If the road surface is level but slippery with mud and/or snow then lock it.
Same for tracks that have, axle twisters, steep climbs and descents, leave it locked.
.

Re Dougal's comment. Having front and rear lockers might have presented different outcome - true 4x4. No front/rear lockers on old Tojo and does not have centre diff - gearbox is either locked in solid 4x4 or is in 2x4. Being in solid 4x4 in old Tojo is equal to locked centre diff in LT230 with open diffs rear/front, and was the problem. In this situation being able to disengage front entirely provided the solution. Would have been interesting to see how unlocked centre diff vehicle would have performed (would have still been giving power to the front and giving same problem likely) but no such vehicle immediately to hand in 1982 - just my experience in getting out of a dicy situation. Free wheeling hubs on a Disco to cover all eventualities - front and rear? Chains on Tojo would have given the bite needed to proceed forward, probably.

Got into the habit of locking it in 4wd on the gravel due to company policy (triton and Colorados) but only engage the cdl in the disco if really rough, loose or muddy. But always do it when towing on gravel.

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I have been on dirt or gravel road with CDL engaged only to find short sections where concrete has been laid to increase traction due to the steep grade and surface.
The coast road between Cape tribulation and Bloomfield has a few of these and it is a pain with transmission windup or a relatively dangerous unlock and lock of the CD the only options.
But as a rule I usually lock it regardless of the quality of the gravel road.

Cheers,
Paul.

When I had lots of brown hair and learning - on gravel - it was continually driven (sorry...) into me that the hands suggested which way to point...and the foot/back wheels dictated how far & fast the turn. Encouraged "co-ordination" as well as thinking ahead...

This was at transit speeds on graded gravel roads, not '4WD tracks', though I suspect the same applies. Or, a surface & speed that is fine for 2WD cars driven sensibly.

The HR farm ute taught me well ...and the CM Valiant re-inforced the lessons years later on sealed roads. It was particularly responsive to powering out of a corner. I was going to say 'stable', but we should'nt use that and 'Valiant' in the same sentence.

Interestingly, the Lady Sarah behaved worse with a locked (buggered BW) transfer box on the same unsealed road than at present with RWD, -. Less understeer now, and more sensitive to throttle. Requires 'attention' when driving, though I find this preferable to being a Front-RH seat passenger.

Will be interesting to see how she goes with a working BW box.
- The comments here have been most instructive.

'James in Gosnells.
'The Lady Sarah, '95 softdash with working air suspension,
-and 2WD.