Pretty much, when they moved to the serpentine belt (3.9) the crank snout changed due to the oil pump but otherwise much the same - all 3.5's are basically the same.
As the tittle says have they remained the same throughout the years, meaning is I had a 3.5 block from an early 1982 model wouls all the bits from a 1993 3.5 bolt to it, Timing case ect
Pretty much, when they moved to the serpentine belt (3.9) the crank snout changed due to the oil pump but otherwise much the same - all 3.5's are basically the same.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
In general 3.5 and 3.9 blocks are the same - some later blocks have extra webbing. 4.0 and 4.6 blocks, while similar to 3.5/3.9s have some differences such as larger journals in the crank and four bolt mains. As i understand it timing covers can mix and match but some may need a little modification.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Thanks guys thats what I thought just wanted to confirm
If your 93 block doesn't take the serpintine belt it will bolt straight on.
There were lots of small changes done over the years, but like most things land rover bits will bolt onto other bits.
There's heaps of info if you look up 'how to power tune a rover v8' - you can read it on Google books.
Just remember that all Rover V8 blocks are BACKWARD compatable, IE you can fit all older hang ons to a newer block.
BUT not necessrily Vice versa, as the engineers didn't have their crystal balls working very well in the 70s and 80's.
Eg you cannot fit a crank oil pump timing case to a block /crank with a short nose .
Regards Philip A
Not quite true unless you mean the P38/D2 oil pump/timing cover assembly, although I reckon you could get away with it with the 10mm less nose length in the front pulley. I fitted a D1 serpentine front cover to a vee belt 3.9, just had to recut the keyway in the crank to suit the longer key. I wouldn't recommend it for the faint hearted though...but then you could just swap the crank.
What I find interesting is how LR kept the pickup oil gallery in the 4.0/4.6 block even though the new front cover design uses a totally separate pickup. This is why you can fit one to an earlier set of accessories.
Ok, so whats the consensus here, do I carry on with this 3.5 block I have which has had a 20 thou bore already and the crank has been done cause the bearings are marked +10 thought, I pulled the pistons they look good, so do I bother sending it to be checked out honed and tidied up or scrap it and source a 4.6 short motor from somewhere, it will eventuallybe going in my pre update D1
Depends what you want.
If you have the block and pistons checked and they are all clear with OK ring lands and the bearing caps are tight, then that will be the cheapest option.
The 3.5 will be a nice 3.5 . IMHO the 3.5 has the greatest chance of being reliable as far as sleeves are concerned , because there is more meat around them. BUt the bottom end does not like revs.
However if you want the extra torque of a 4.6 then that is the way to go, BUT to make a unknown second hand 4.6 reliable it could cost a lot of money in top hatted liners, and still need crank regrinds, new cam, lifters,etc etc. The cross bolt bottom end is much better.
It will go OK with a 3.5 14CUX but will have limited top end power.
Avoid a 4.0 litre block as these were of a lower standard of casting as it is estimated at least 50% cracked behind the sleeves, unless of course you are prepared to top hat it no matter what.
On balance unless you have a spiritual and obsessively loving relationship with the D1, I would go for the cheaper option of a 3.5, even if the current 3.5 is no good, as you can pick up a good 3.5 for peanuts while an unknown 4.6 will have a big ask and then may still need lots of money spent on it.
Regards Philip A
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