Thread: Silly question time

depends on what buffing compounds have been used, if the scotch brite worked ok then stick with that just to be on the safe side

Wasnt going to use buffing compound, just a fresh dry buffing wheel to clean them thhts all

I cleaned mine late last year and just finished putting them back in the engine this morning - used a Dremel and their wire wheels on moderate speed - worked fine but anything larger will chew into them.

Garry

Yeah not looking at a wire wheel just a soft buffing wheel, should be fine if I go easy I guess

I cleaned mine up with a Scotchbrite pad (several !!) and used Lanotec "Orange" cleaner from a spray can (sparingly ). No electric tools just elbow grease... The Lanotec product softened the accumulated deposits after a while and the Scotchbrite did the rest.

Originally Posted by Kevin B

Yeah not looking at a wire wheel just a soft buffing wheel, should be fine if I go easy I guess

But is that going to remove the carbon? I doubt it as it can be tough.

You can buy scotchbrite wheels too if it would make it easier for you.
Also you can get what looks like a wire wheel, but is made of some sort of hardened plastic. Very good for this type of application I would think. The one I bought I had to use a bolt and a couple of washers to amount it in my drill.

And brass wheels are good too, just don't put a lot of weight behind it as your working. We use these on aluminum all the time at work.

Here is a pic of the piston tops now after a wipe over with scotch bright now scrubbing, I dont the sides are gonna be any worse than this so a buff psd should be ok

1993 Discovery 1 3.5l
2" Lift, Cranked HD Trailing Arms
31" Maxxis Mudders
Tons of Radios, Tons of Spotties