From what I have been told the chemical ones are ok, but you have to be carefull how much you use because some of them are quite strong.
Hi all, just managed to get my hands on a secondhand 127 litre long range fuel tank for my disco, only problem is that the people that made it or installed it in the last vehicle just sprayed paint straight onto the metal. So I have the task of getting all the old paint off first, which is coming off easily with a paint scrapper, only problem I have now is how do I get the surface rust off where water has been sitting ? I can use the sander on most parts of the fuel tank but the worst area is hard to get too, its the area around the top where the fuel sender and pump go in !!
Any ideas, are chemical rust removers any good ?
Thanks.
From what I have been told the chemical ones are ok, but you have to be carefull how much you use because some of them are quite strong.
1994 Discovery TDi
2004 Discovery 2 TD5
2010 Discovery 4 TDV6
1961, Series 2 Ambulance. 108-098 - Eden
Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers Mem. 129
Defence Transport Heritage Tasmania Member
I have had a heap of sucess dealing to rust with a Australian paint product called POR 15.
The makers have a ton of products designed to deal to rust and protecting against its return......I'm no expert but have had no problems with it on the Series 2a :wink: :wink: 8)
I used an organic acid rust convertor/primer/sealer on my trailer, and it works a treat just wire bursh off the loose rust and paint on the convertor it can also be painted over when dry. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
The product is Galmet Ironize
Cheers Joatt
Wire wheel on the drill or grinder ? If you're worried about sparks igniting fumes, fill the tank with water before doing anywork.
Another paint product that is good is Yotun 605 , 2 part epoxy, which I've used that has rust converter/inhibitors and works well. High resistance to damage, spray paintable or use a brush, recoatable. Surface prep is only no scaley/flakey stuff (paint or rust) and any light rust is treated as you paint it. Then it will only rust from the inside out then. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
Try your local Taubmans paint supplier. They stock a comprehensive Industial range of paint products. You will find that a rust converter followed by an Industrial type primer and Epoxy finish will last forever. I would be wary of using any electrical method of removing the scale. Takes longer by hand, but no risk of turning the tank into an "extra" long range job. I have seen it done, the bang is huge. Filling with water is an option, as is running a pipe off your exhaust into the tank to burn off the VOC's. However slow and steady can give a better finish.
Cheers Tyrepower.
Thanks for the info guys, will go down to the paint shop this weekend....
The fuel tank is bone dry by the way, can't even smell any vapour, actually the inside looks brand new !!
Matt.
"DO NOT I Say again DO NOT" be missled by the fact that you can't smell any vapours in the tank, and that it looks new inside. Many a panel beater and welder has been wrong in there assessment when working on fuel tanks......... and ended up in all sorts of trouble. If your very very lucky all you will get is sore ears. People have been killed by pieces coming off the exploding tank. It's just not worth the risk. The safest way is to take half a carton and the telly to the shed, put on the footy, take an hour or 2 to prep by hand and be safe.
Cheers Tyrepower
Would have to agree no fuel smell does NOT equal no explosion... 8O
What brand of beer would you be thinkin of [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] you might get a few helpers..... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
Cheers or is that cchhheerrrrsss
Joatt
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