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Thread: carbs to efi: which manifold?

  1. 2nd July 2014, 02:44 PM #31
    PhilipA
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    OK - thanks - so if it dumps fuel on the ignition pulse for that cylinder it is
    clearly too late to be fired at that time so I guess the fuel sits in the intake
    manifold above the inlet valve waiting for the next firing.
    Yes and until recently even sequential injection did this above a couple of thousand revs as the rise time for the injectors is/was slower than the valve opening time.
    This may have changed with the latest piezo injectors and will not be a factor with direct injection so they MAY be sequential at higher revs.

    However AFAIK the main benefit of sequential is emissions not performance.
    Regards Philip A
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  2. 11th July 2014, 07:57 AM #32
    russotouristo
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    just undid the crank pulley bolt.(started the engine with a socket wrench on the bolt). then i removed the alternator belt. it was tough, but we almost removed the steering pump belt - when moving the pump downwards it stops for some reason. i just loosened couple of bolts on its bracket and saw some fluid (which one? coolant? oil? brake fluid?) dropping from one of the bolts.

    the tensioning pulley of the water pump was the toughest. not only the tightening bolt had a 1/2 socket (here we have mainly metric tools and i will have to wait weeks before get the wrench delivered), but the bolt was tightened from the wrong side - the wrench travel is at most 45 degrees restricted by the pulley itself...
    i am afraid the pulley would be pressed on to the crankshaft...

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  3. 11th July 2014, 09:17 AM #33
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    bee utey
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    Quote Originally Posted by russotouristo View Post
    the tensioning pulley of the water pump was the toughest. not only the tightening bolt had a 1/2 socket (here we have mainly metric tools and i will have to wait weeks before get the wrench delivered), but the bolt was tightened from the wrong side - the wrench travel is at most 45 degrees restricted by the pulley itself...
    i am afraid the pulley would be pressed on to the crankshaft...
    You know it's trivially easy to acquire a drive belt 10mm longer than original and this makes the tensioner bolt quite easy to access.
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  4. 11th July 2014, 09:53 PM #34
    russotouristo
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    got it! nice tip! the same refers to the steering pump belt?
    any tips on tightening these belts? whatsort of lever should it be?
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  5. 13th July 2014, 07:10 PM #35
    russotouristo
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    got the right wrench and removed the pulley. how do i remove the oil deflector, which is pressed onto the pulley?

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  6. 10th September 2014, 07:15 PM #36
    russotouristo
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    well. heat helped me with that reflector. now couple of questions: what is the needed torque for the pulley and how do i apply it/is it critical? :-) te secondone is when undoing the pulley i noticed some oildrips from i didn't get where - it probably wasn't the crankshaft seal, but could easily be steering pump. could it be that belt tension helped the pump's shaft remain sealed? what are the cosequences of using mulfunctioning pump? thanks!
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