Just to add:
The spline wear issue on the later (disc rear) models is usually prevented by removing the stub axle oil seal, to allow oil to flood the splines and bearings. This also necessitates replacing the inner hub bearing seal (which is just a grease seal) with the earlier oil seal. RTC3511 is the part number of the earlier seal. It won't do any good if your splines are already buggered from the lack of lubrication, but it will save them deteriorating if they're still OK now.
Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO
SubscriberHmm, lost me in technicailities now I'm afraid. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]
Will watch this thread with interest though but for the meoment will adopt the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" approach. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO
SubscriberPaul how do the maxidrive axles fit into all of this ?
Are they just the axles ?
Do they bolt up the same to any and all of these set ups or is there some difference in the seals etc used ?
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Master
VladTepes Wrote:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Hmm, lost me in technicailities now I'm afraid.
Will watch this thread with interest though but for the meoment will adopt the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" approach.
[/b][/quote]
Yes but why not improve something so it don't brake.
try maxidrive's site out.
http://www.4wdworld.com.au/products/maxidr...drive/index.htm
Vlad
The Maxidrive axles offer improvement over the standard setup in 3 ways:
a) The axles are larger in diameter, in fact they are the largest diameter axles that will still fit through the standard stub axles without machining,
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img] The axles are made of a much better quality steel than standard,
c) The splines are longer for better engagement with the better quality Maxidrive drive flanges.
They are usually sold as axles & drive flanges togther, and that's all you would need to do the job. The Maxidrive axles & drive flange replacements are a direct replacement fit for the standard jobbies, and would take about 15 minutes each side to fit on the rear. On your vehicle (like mine) no changes to the seals etc are necessary.
The front will take a fair bit longer because, although being a direct replacement, removal of the stub axles & CVs is required to replace the axles. Also, on the front, replacing the two oil seals would be a good idea at the same time as well as the various gaskets.
If you buy the Maxidrive diff lock kit, it will include the axle and drive flange upgrade components as well, unless you specifically opt out. However, you can buy the axle upgrade components first, and then later buy the locking centre as a separate exercise if you decide to go the whole hog.
Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO
Subscriber[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
As I said, I'm no good with the technicalities - never having seen these bits off the car I don't think I could tell a stub axle from a drive flangeops:
I did know the maxidrives were the go but not why. I am now enlightened. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
My Falcon just died yesterday, and having bugger all dosh at the moment I won't be getting maxidrives any time soon....
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
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