Thread: Diff leaking !!

Pinion seal, where drive shaft enters diff. Seal around $15, if rear uni on shaft is a rubber donut, then take it to a rover guy, the pin is a bitch to get out without the proper tool. if a regular uni, like what I changed my disco to, takes about 30 minutes to change from go to whoa. The Haynes workshop maual tells you how to do it for yourself. Manual is around $50. Hope this helps.

check to make sure breather isnt blocked before spending money...

Thanks guys, will check today....

Don't forget if the pinion shaft has a groove to speedi sleeve it before the new seal goes on or you'll be doing it again when the seal fails later.

Originally posted by Hellspawn
Don't forget if the pinion shaft has a groove to speedi sleeve it before the new seal goes on or you'll be doing it again when the seal fails later.

For fellow ignoramuses (unless I am alone here) :? :

What is a speedy sleeve please?

A very costly piece of circular metal very thin, measured in thousandth's of an Inch (thats Imperial for all you youngsters only familair with Metric jargon) you measure your shaft or whatever then off to the bearing service with your measurments and they supply a sleeve thats fits over your worn shaft or flange it is a very neat fit i.e. driven on with a knockonmeter (hammer) it generally is up to 5 thousands of an inch larger in diameter of the shaft or flange so the seal seals when this wears out I guess it's time to replace the worn out bits, go to the bearing service and ask for a look at one and then dare to ask the price :? :?

Not that expensive really, depending on size of course. I last purchased one for the seal collar on the input shaft of my transfer box. All up $30. Cheaper than replacing the seal collar, but more importantly, far easier to fit in situ than removing the seal collar for replacement.


You can see the speedi-sleeve in place here, at the point where the mainshaft exits the gearbox:



Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Well the other point is it (speedi sleeve) enables things to be repaired at far less cost than would be to replace with a new unit. Inner wheel bearing seal, drive yokes, camshaft (if the belt is external to the motor), cranshaft pulley shaft, just about anywhere a seal runs on a shaft to keep oil in and yuk out. To replace any of these shafts would cost $'s so with a $30~40 repair plus the new seal, the shaft is a good as new, which isn't bad if you get another 200,000km before it fails again. It is more likely that the seal will wear out before the speedi sleeve needs to be replaced.

Biggest thing you need to remember apart from getting the right size for the shaft is it needs to be able to transfer heat ( heat from the seal rubbing on the sleeve) from itself to the shaft. Use loctite (any of them except 222) to "fill" the gap between the damage on the shaft and the sleeve to ensure it doesn't burn. Loctite doesn't have to be used though as the fit is usually tight however it is good insurance to make sure that the sleeve won't spin on the shaft through lack of interference or burn due to insufficient heat transfer.

Most "switched on" bearing people can tell you the size of the speedi sleeve if you take the new seal to them. They have a book detailing every shaft ever made so they measure the seal, cross reference the seal to the book, then hand you the seal and speedi sleeve back. Then it's just a matter of already described, stand on your head to carry out the repair. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]