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Thread: 300 tdi radiator engine oil cooler

  1. #1
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    300 tdi radiator engine oil cooler

    With so many posts on operating temperature of the mighty 300 tdi. Has anyone considered removing the engine oil cooler loop from the radiator and replacing it with an aftermarket, separate job. Me thinks this would reduce / optermize radiator temp. Just speculating.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazzle218 View Post
    With so many posts on operating temperature of the mighty 300 tdi. Has anyone considered removing the engine oil cooler loop from the radiator and replacing it with an aftermarket, separate job. Me thinks this would reduce / optermize radiator temp. Just speculating.
    Yes, just never got around to doing it as I reckon the oil temp is a real issue, IMO the cooler is inadequate.

    Partly this can be solved by blocking the oversized bleed, and partly by usinga deeper/more efficient core, and better airflow through the Deefer engine bay by using some judicious cutouts in the guards as uninformed has done will help too.

  3. #3
    Saint_Jimmy90 Guest
    This might be slightly unrelated, but I had cooling issues with my 300 tdi after we put on a home made winch bar, the problem was solved with cutting down the grill and replacing the centre of the grill with high quality bird cage wire.

    As a result my disco runs much cooler, takes a long time to heat up to operating temp and doesn't overheat. There seems to be inadequate airflow through the standard grill and the modified grill is much stronger than the original plastic one

    I'll post a photo if you are interested

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the input, I have just had the radiator roded and the bleed hole modified. My grill is still the plastic job. interesting idea re wire. I have available some stainless security screen stuff i wonder would this cause an issue given the mesh size. Saying that i'm happy my coolant system is A one. Water pump and hoses recently changed . Cant help but chase the elusive perfect machine.

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    I'm thinking about applying a tgv turbo to my 300tdi 110.

    I think about applying a gt2056vk

    To compensate for the increase in temperatures I am thinking of installing:

    .aluminum radiator, allysport type
    .double intercooler
    .external engine oil radiator.

    I don't know if it's worth installing the external oil radiator but this is the idea:

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  7. #7
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    the cooler in radiator is sufficient for 90% of circumstances, the only reason I have for replacing it with an external cooler is if you're replacing the radiator and realise the radiator with out the cooler is a lot cheaper and you can then fit a better cooler for the oil in front of the radiator. this makes servicing either easier and cheaper next time around.

    if you're running all the numbers up to limit, big tyres, towing, desert or QLD heat, low pressures, big long climbs, wound up fuel pump, Auto working the TC to death, then its worth doing both coolers. Oil to coolant then into oil to air.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazzle218 View Post
    With so many posts on operating temperature of the mighty 300 tdi. Has anyone considered removing the engine oil cooler loop from the radiator and replacing it with an aftermarket, separate job. Me thinks this would reduce / optermize radiator temp. Just speculating.
    i'm in the process of doing an LS conversion and radiators are a hot topic. I read a blog in relation to LS engines but would apply for any engine, the test was between an integrated engine oil cooler in the radiator versus not. IIRC the temp increased by 1 deg in the normal operating range (under light load, coasting) with the integrated cooler versus not and by 3 deg when working the engine real hard. What i took from the test is that the impact on coolant temp with the integrated oil cooler was not significant.

    I'm going separates but that is mainly due to packaging and on advice of someone in the radiator business and a mate who is an automatic gearbox specialist.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  9. #9
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    I'd probably like them separate, but 1 good point of the integrated is that it helps the Auto warm up.

    After that, the Auto adds more heat to the engine and the engine adds more heat to the Auto... Depending on operating conditions of course.

    I've never actually got to the bottom of what an ideal Auto Trans temp is... But it's better under 100°.

    Modern engines often operate at that temp or hotter.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    I'd probably like them separate, but 1 good point of the integrated is that it helps the Auto warm up.

    After that, the Auto adds more heat to the engine and the engine adds more heat to the Auto... Depending on operating conditions of course.

    I've never actually got to the bottom of what an ideal Auto Trans temp is... But it's better under 100°.

    Modern engines often operate at that temp or hotter.
    i've researched alot about engines, cooling, autos and the like for the LS conversion. GM with the 6L80 thermostat was 98 deg C from its intro until 2020. in 2020 GM recommended as a service item to replace the thermostat for that auto to 79 deg C. GM found the higher thermostat was causing premature failure of the gearbox. Granted they didn't move fast on implementing the change. A mate who is one of the best auto specialists on the east coast is of the view that you can run the 6L80 without a thermostat in Australia. He also buys random stuff from the auctions because it catches his eye, so i'm not convinced of his sanity. I am going with the 79 deg C thermostat and a large separate cooler as a compromise between all the opinions.

    The higher operating temps of modern engines is mainly to do with emissions. There is a reasoning for the near 100 deg C thermostat temps on forums that at that temp the moisture is boiled off the oil. But lets be honest, there are 2 flaws in that logic. First, engine oil and transmission oils operate under pressure. increase pressure, increase boiling point of the fluid. So the boiling point of any moisture in the system is not going to boil off at 100deg C, but a higher temp based on the pressure. for example, the coolant system that operates at 17psi has a boiling point of around 114/116 deg . The second point, the logic relies on some magical threshold that below boiling temp, the moisture remains in the oil and above that temp it boils off. Evaperation starts much lower temps. Granted oil at 80 deg might take longer for moisture to evaporate, but it will do so.

    rant over. carry on gents.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

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