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You shouldn't use the primer on a TDI pump if it's more than a couple of years old as it stuffs them and then they leak. You don't need to anyway they will bleed the air out of the filter on the the lift pump while running, takes about 30 sec just crack the the bleeder and start the engine.
Then maybe my lift pump hadn't been working for some time (superfluous).
The coincidence was that I changed the filter. The only symptom was that the primer wasn't working. Taking out the pump to inspect and putting it back in, broke the siphon. The engine started to resent the air in the system.
If I had started the engine without priming and the bleed valve open I wouldn't have known.
Plausable?
Hi all, i to had this problem with the fuel lift pump and the cracked pipe fitting on the pump where the pipe comes from the filter, I had trouble fitting the new pump as the pipe only just reaches, is there a place around that can supply a longer line? Can anyone help.
Well done JF!,Quote:
Originally posted by jf1056
So I have removed the lift pump altogether... Runs like a charm and has done for the last 20 odd thou.
I've though about this myself but haven't had the balls/time to try it as yet.
The Bosch VE pump has a vane-type pump built into the drive end of the pump. It's main purpose is to keep the pump interior full and at a known positive pressure to feed the high pressure cylinder. I didn't know whether it would have the suction capability to draw fuel from the tank and through the filter, but it seems it does. I thought that may have been why LR fitted the engine-driven lift pump.
Just for interest, I said above that the vane pump maintains a 'known' internal pressure, not a 'constant' pressure. The internal pressure is designed to increase with pump rpm in a controlled manner. This increasing internal pressure actually operates the timing advance mechanism as engine rpm increases. Today's bit of diesel trivia...
and an interesting morsel at that!Quote:
Originally posted by Leo109
Today's bit of diesel trivia...
Hi All, I email Alan at British 4wd and he said they can supply a replacement line with a corkscrew like thing in the line like a pigs tail to allow for movement, however he made mention of a banjo fitting at the fuel filter end which can be fiddly to fit. He told me to leave it with him and he is going to looking into making up a kit to sell to land rover owners which can be fitted to rectify the problem, I will let you guys know when he gets back to me. Matt
Why go through all this drama, just remove it and be done with it. A second hand filter with hand primer is $25 and can be obtained from any wrecker that sells 4wds or light trucks, just take a choice. I selected the Lucas CAV style that uses a CAV296 filter, $5 new. Blank off the fuel pump opening on the block and use 1/4" hose to go over the existing banjo fitting on the pump end and use a Pirtek adapter for the plastic hose from the tank end. Simple, quick and best of all a fraction of the price of a new pump. As I said in my earlier post. This works and has done for 20 odd thou K's and no loss of performance and economy.
:wink: go for it and be [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]
Hi jf, if only i had read the forum a two weeks ago. I only just bought a new pump. I will most definitely go with your method when this ones dies, but till then I am going to extend its life as long as pos to get my monies worth. Matt