Vlad
Not sure if I'm thinking of the same thing as you but do you mean speed nuts. Have a look at the following site it might help you out.
http://www.rageem.com.au/Sales/Speed_Nuts/...speed_nuts.html
Cheers
Iain
Nut serts ? Maybe nut certs ?
Anyway, the things I mean are those little nut things which you locate on part A (eg a door frame etc) to allow part B (eg a door trim) to be bolted into place using tiny little bolts.
Advantage over rivets - can easily remove and refit part.
Advantage over self tapping screws - can do so many times without screwing up part A.
So - you know what I'm talking about, right :?: :?
Where do I get 'em, how do I use 'em (ie how do they attach to part A).
Anyone know of a reference / pics / details on the net anywhere :?:
I am wanting to use this method to attach some aluminium chequerplate.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Vlad
Not sure if I'm thinking of the same thing as you but do you mean speed nuts. Have a look at the following site it might help you out.
http://www.rageem.com.au/Sales/Speed_Nuts/...speed_nuts.html
Cheers
Iain
RS Components (electronics mob) over at Archerfield (Opposite the airfield on the corner of Boundary and Beatty Roads)have nut-serts and the application tool which is a sort of plier thing. I don't have a cattledog here at home but have seen them in their cattledog. You could use the web catalog but it is a bit painful.
These can be bought from any nut & bolt merchant. The tool to fit them with is quite expensive but you do not need it. All you need is a piece of flat steel about 25mm x 5 mm x 150mm, drill a hole into it the same size as the screws you are going to use. You will need an Allen Screw the same size & thread as you will be using about 30mm long plus a couple of serrated washers the same size.
Drill the hole into the bodywork for the Nutsert, insert the Nutsert into the hole, then with the Allen Screw through the hole in the steel put the serrated washer on the screw so it is between the steel and the Nutsert, the washer it to stop the Nutsert from turning. Tighten the Allen screw while holding the steel, keep tightening until the Nutsert is fixed into the body.
Nutserts are a great fixing method, I use them occassionally in our workshop for fixing mirrors etc.
Kit available from Blackwoods with M4, M5, & M6 Nutserts Nosepieces to suit and Tool Blacwoods part No: 00318611 Price is $193.58 Gst Inc. Price may vary depending on who you are.
:? I think this is what I mean.
They can be re-used right - once the screw (bolt, whatever) is in place, it can be removed and refitted an infinite (ok then, numerous) number of times :?:
i.e. for a interior door trim (someone here did one on their disco rear door) to make removal easy when need to access door mechanism - and other similar applications.
It could be used, then, wherever a rivet or self tapper might be used. Yes ?
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Vlad,
Yes you are correct, once the Nutsert is fitted a screw can be used in it repeatedly. It is a method of fixing a nut to sheet metal
There are a few types too. There are the ones where a square nut (usually - but sometimes a hex nut) is housed in a metal cage with a couple of tangs on it. You require a square hole and press the tangs together to snap the nut-cert into the square hole. The nut stays put when you remove the screw and whatever the screw is supposed to hold.
The other type is a standard nut with a sightly smaller knurled collar. You need a round hole for a tight fit of the collar on the nut and as you tighten the screw, the collar pulls into the hole and the knurl stops it from rotating. Again, the nut is secured in place when the screw is removed. These can work loose though with rough handling and are best suited to metal about 1.5mm thick.
The third common type is similar to the second type I mentioned but instead of the knurl, the collar is longer and is then riveted over (flared out) to secure it in position.
All of these use a derivative of a traditional nut and can be screwed up very tight.
Another type is a bent piece of spring steel with a two tabs that grip the thread of the screw. They clip over a hole like clothes peg. Best suited with coarse threads like a self tapper. Can't be done up too tight because the thread locking tabs bend or break. Often used for holding lightweight dress panels or components in place.
All of these methods are designed to be repeatedly disassembled and reassembled.
Hope this helps.
Am feeling a bit overwhelmed.
Deciding what is best in what situation, and then what to ask the shop for.
It's all so :? but then perhaps I'm just stupid. 8O
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
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