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Thread: crank pulley removal - belts - how to?

  1. 9th June 2014, 03:34 AM #1
    russotouristo
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    crank pulley removal - belts - how to?

    okay. here's another one. say, I got the right socket and a lever to untighten the nut.
    here's the picture of my belts (don't see any difference between these two)
    ?????? ?????? 2014-06-08 ? 22.13.29.jpg
    first I thought I'd need to remove all the belts, but after looking carefully at this scheme I realized that I don't need to touch alternator or AC pump (though they looked to be the easiest to remove).
    How do I remove no3 and no4 belts? what is the pulley between the crank and the alternator? power steering pump? and there seems to be a tensioning pulley for the water pump - how do I get to it?
    any links to videos/tutorials/photos are very much appreciated.
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  2. 9th June 2014, 04:08 PM #2
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    Scouse
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    #3 belt is tensioned by adjusting the PAS pump - you need to remove the alternator belt first.


    #4 is removed after loosening the tensioner pulley.
    Scott
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  3. 9th June 2014, 04:18 PM #3
    russotouristo
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    so it's doable even for an inexperienced guy like myself? should i first loosen the pulley bolt and than remove the belts, or vice versa? i've read that without preheating it could be quite hard...

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  4. 9th June 2014, 04:49 PM #4
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    Scouse
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    Do you any means of locking the engine for when you remove the crank bolt?
    If not, you'll need a rattle/impact gun to remove it or you can try the old 'breaker bar against the chassis' trick.




    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6SFBg7_dg
    Scott
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  5. 9th June 2014, 07:03 PM #5
    russotouristo
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    Scott, that was first thing i was thinking about (it's a pity there's no rover-specific video ;-) - the thing is I've read in a topic by jezzy89 (could be mistaken in his name) he had difficulties with that method - it didn't work for him. however using a torch seems dangerous as it could melt down a sealer (if there is any).
    still, should I first remove the belts or untighten the pulley bolt?
    what's the easiest way to roll-back in case of failure?

    what makes me wonder is why all those megasquirt guys don't use the flywheel teeth for engine speed/position.
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  6. 9th June 2014, 10:46 PM #6
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    From my experience, heat is usually used on frozen parts, ie: you need to heat the female section to expand it slightly to release the male section.


    With the crank bolt, you'll need to apply heat to the crank itself which is nigh on impossible to do as it's behind the pulley.
    There are freeze sprays available these days so maybe some of that on the bolt head might have the desired effect.


    If it were my car, I'd try the breaker bar on the chassis before trying to apply heat though.
    Scott
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  7. 23rd July 2014, 02:38 AM #7
    russotouristo
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    yep.that was easy (seems I've already reported that I managed to remove the pulley and even disassemble it (six 1/2" bolts/nuts).

    now I get a dilemma: can I get rid of that balancing plate - does it make any difference? I am about to add a compound 5mm trigger wheel (made of two wheels 2mm +3 mm) - i guess there will be no room for the balancing disk. I might weight up that balancing stuff pressed in the groove of the rim of that balancing plate and make a hole (or several holes) in the trigger wheels to compensate for it. however, there was plenty of oily debris in that groove which could also affect balancing… So, do I have to retain that weight?

    the second question to megasquirt guys is what's the size/thread of the bolt to keep the bracket of the crank position sensor? Is it imperial or metric? (I was in a hurry and completely forgot about it)
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