Actually that could be my fault we were going to move it to the tech section,
I didn't think I moved your post perhaps I did it by mistake as I was moving another thread.
You will find your post in the tech section
Sorry about that
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Actually that could be my fault we were going to move it to the tech section,
I didn't think I moved your post perhaps I did it by mistake as I was moving another thread.
You will find your post in the tech section
Sorry about that
My neighbour took a door lock in to get a key cut for a 1992 vogue.
$50 and got 3 keys. (less than 6 months ago)
He had trouble finding a locksmith that could do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dullbird
Hello Dullbird,
No worries. This message has moved more times than a couple of my Series 3 Land Rovers have recently. :p Including the one I need a new key cut for :angel:
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello Jboot,Quote:
Originally Posted by jboot51
Thank you for your reply and for providing a recent Queensland-based price too! I am located in Bundaberg.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello Richard,Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallaby Ted
I read your post.... hmmm ignition lock in question positioned to the left hand side of my keyboard. Stanley 65.542 flat blade screw driver located on the right hand side of my keyboard on my computer desk. The two came together and ... no movement. Oh well thank you for your suggestion.
By the way my Series 3 is an ex-Army Fitted For Radio. While in service it only had a off on pull or flick type key-less switch for the ignition. When it was for sale to the civilian market this was replaced with a civilian key controlled ignition switch. Another of my FFRs had an American made lock that is made for Navistar International trucks! The latest FFR's ignition switch might not even be originally off a Land Rover at all.
Would the new key operated switch be installed by the Army immediately prior to the auction or would the auctioneers installed it?
Postscript: I just checked my spares FFRs and one had the whole ignition switch cut off at the wires while it was sitting at the wreckers. It was rescued from a scrap yard by the previous owner. Another FFR has the American made ignition; and one has 4 bolt and nut fixings instead of the spade terminals. It looks like any ignition switch that was handy at the time was installed prior to the vehicles being registered after the clearance auction.
It might be time to standardise my ignition switch manufacturers I think.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello All,
A couple of people have mentioned about getting more than one key cut for different locks. It dawned on me that apart from having no keys for the ignition switch I also have no keys for the two door locks - it is a ute body.
Can the locks be taken out of the burst-proof door handles while everything else remains in situ? Or does the whole handle device need to come out of the door so I can take the door lock to the locksmith?
Kind Regards
Lionel
Unfortunately that never worked on the series 3, only the old 2a. The Series 3 FFR's I remember driving in the Army had just a rotating switch where the key went, the old Series IIa FFR I think had that sort of arrangement you are describing and had a push button start.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionelgee
Personally I would try to use original as it makes finding parts easier when you forget what you did originally :)
It has been nearly 20 years since I pulled apart the door handles/locks on the series 3 but I did pull the handles from the door as I didn't know what I was doing at the time and was just following the workshop manual. Another option would be to purchase new barrels for the locks with the keys and just change them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionelgee
Richard
Hello All,
I did some more research last night and came across a photograph that showed some close-up details of the insides of an ignition switch. I also had a look on the internet for how to re-key an ignition switch.
I followed the directions and got everything apart. However, the internet site's directions about the positioning of the springs and the key pins did not match. For example, "Insert new key and place in pins then replace springs." With the Lucas type ignition switch the pins go on top of the springs. I put a key in and readjusted the pins. However once I put the barrel back in the ignition switch it would not accept the new keying.
I will be buying new barrels and keys for the ignition and for the door locks.
Thank you Gromit for posting the link to the barrel and keys in the UK. It gave me something to work out what to tinker with and to find an Australian supplier.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Lionel - if you are looking for prices, at ESL in Brisbane it was $25 to cut a key from a number and $30-50 to cut a lock to fit a key. That was way back in '95-'00 though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Hello IsuzuRover,
Thank you for the reply. Just now I am pretty happy to get a set of three barrels with keys in the near future. This means I will get the ignition and door locks all working with the same key.
I also found out if three pins are removed from the barrel the ignition can be operated with a flat blade screw driver. This will allow me to be able to start the test engine for the interim. This is a big step up from the previous situation.
The door locks are on an unregistered vehicle that needs some work done on it. This means there is no great rush involved at this exact moment of time. :) Getting the test engine started was my first priority.
Kind Regards
Lionel