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Thread: Brake bleeding issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Brake bleeding issue

    Hi All
    My brother has a 87 RRC
    He had an issue with R H Front calliper so ended up replacing it with a spare calliper he had.
    OK in the Haynes manual it said that you have to bleed both bleeder on the calliper at same time which we did.
    I pumped brake pedal, held it down till pressure dropped then he tightened both bleeders. I released pedal pressed it all good nice pressure.
    Did this a number of times to make sure no air in system on both LH and RH calliper.
    Now here's the kicker.....started the engine and pressed the pedal and it dropped halfway in its travel ... drove it round the corner and while it still pulled up its definitely braking on back brakes only.

    Prior to changing calliper brakes worked great.

    Any ideas, we're thinking the booster but it's tto coincidental that it would give up suddenly like that.

    All thoughts appreciated

    Baggy

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Possibly the shuttle valve has tripped. This should cause the brake fail light to come on but the wiring on most rr's is shagged anyway. The shuttle valve will lock off one of the brake circuits. To reset you unscrew the switch and it should Re center.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Does the caliper have 2 brake lines going to it, if so there is a third bleed nipple on the outside of the caliper. You need to remove the wheel to get at it and follow the bleed procedure as in the Land Rover Workshop manual, Tip, paint the Haynes manual green and throw it into tall grass, Regards Frank.

  4. #4
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Hi All
    I pumped brake pedal, ..... held it down till pressure dropped then he tightened both bleeders. I released pedal pressed it all good nice pressure.
    Never "Pump" the brakes ... just mixes the air into the fluid.


    2 person operation is .... I person on the valve with spanner, 1 person with with foot on the pedal.

    Foot on Pedal>> yell "DOWN" >>> Open valve to release air n fluid / Close valve >> Yells "CLOSED">> .... SLOWLEY release pedal >> Yell "UP" >>> Repeat the open / closed cycle until no more air.



    A helpful tool is ......
    Go down to Superch...p or Repco and buy a $10 self bleed bottle kit.

    Rebleed the brakes ... Pay attention to bleeding the proportioning valve ... and rebleed the rear brakes.



    General Pointers on bleeding simple brake systems .....
    Might be best to remember that you bleed the longest travel of brake line first .... and that air always goes to the top<< so bleed the top of components first


    Cheers
    Mike

  5. #5
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    ^^OMG!!! HE'S ALIVE!!!!

  6. #6
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    Hibernation over ?


  7. #7
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    HE'S ALIVE!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by superquag View Post
    Hibernation over ?
    Still here ... warts n all .....

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Thanks Everyone,

    Appreciate all the advice ....check valve, don't pump, bleed from furtherest wheel first and most importantly Spray an throw Haynes manual into long grass ....just hope it dosent foul the mover when I get around to using it.

    Cheers

    Baggy

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Thanks Everyone,

    Appreciate all the advice ....check valve, don't pump, bleed from furtherest wheel first and most importantly Spray an throw Haynes manual into long grass ....just hope it dosent foul the mover when I get around to using it.

    Cheers

    Baggy
    Does the caliper have the 2 brake lines connected and if so did you find the outside 3rd bleed nipple? Regards Frank.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Tank,

    You were right on the money.
    My brother checked and found a third bleed nipple!

    Bled it and brakes are now fine and his Rangie is back on the road.

    Cheers

    Baggy

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