Thread: Head removed now what? 300tdi

And Frank you bought a bare head, try buying a complete head locally for the same price as a complete kit landed from UK.

Originally Posted by 3lud13

Any tips to remove remaining fluids caught in center of piston or is it best to not install glow plugs and turn engine over by hand.

Remove ALL the visible fluids before reassembly. Remove the coolant drain bolt on the left side of the block, should clear the water galleries. Then dry everything out with compressed air, rags, shop vac etc. Use brake cleaner on the oily deposits. Blow out the bolt holes with compressed air or you will get incorrect torque results. Make it spotless, worth the effort.

"Loanrangie", I bought a complete head with Valves, valve spring seats, valve stem seals, valve spring retainers, valve springs, Crane valve stem caps, new bolts, Victor Rienze MLS head gasket and all other gaskets, tappet cover, thermostat housing, inlet and exhaust.
I bought the head unassembled because I ported and polished and matched inlet and exhaust ports and then I lapped in the valves to their respective seats and assembled the lot. I now have a head I KNOW has perfect sealing valves. How many of you that bought fully assembled head know that all of your valve springs have the correct spring rate or that the valves seal properly.
If you trust some Spanish lady earning $10 a day to assemble your valve gear, then good luck to you, and yes I couldn't buy my head in Australia for the price offered by the Poms, I paid $50 less, including Courier delivery, ordered 10am Monday received 2.30pm Tuesday, beat that, and rang the seller and thanked him for the speed of delivery and to tell him there was one lash cap (genuine Rover rubbish) missing. I had that next day, didn't use them as they were rubbish, genuine Land Rover part in LR bag and part#, used Crane lash caps instead, highly recommended, Regards Frank
P.S. Also purchased a Genuine Garret Turbo for the 300TDi from same vendor at half the price elsewhere, same great service.

Got any contact details Frank?

Originally Posted by Spel1

Remove ALL the visible fluids before reassembly. Remove the coolant drain bolt on the left side of the block, should clear the water galleries. Then dry everything out with compressed air, rags, shop vac etc. Use brake cleaner on the oily deposits. Blow out the bolt holes with compressed air or you will get incorrect torque results. Make it spotless, worth the effort.

Was unaware of a coolant drain bolt will have to go searching for it. Will compressed air from a can work do you think as I have a couple of tins of that around but not a air compressor (it only works if connected to the tyre)

Originally Posted by Tank

"Loanrangie", I bought a complete head with Valves, valve spring seats, valve stem seals, valve spring retainers, valve springs, Crane valve stem caps, new bolts, Victor Rienze MLS head gasket and all other gaskets, tappet cover, thermostat housing, inlet and exhaust.
I bought the head unassembled because I ported and polished and matched inlet and exhaust ports and then I lapped in the valves to their respective seats and assembled the lot. I now have a head I KNOW has perfect sealing valves. How many of you that bought fully assembled head know that all of your valve springs have the correct spring rate or that the valves seal properly.
If you trust some Spanish lady earning $10 a day to assemble your valve gear, then good luck to you, and yes I couldn't buy my head in Australia for the price offered by the Poms, I paid $50 less, including Courier delivery, ordered 10am Monday received 2.30pm Tuesday, beat that, and rang the seller and thanked him for the speed of delivery and to tell him there was one lash cap (genuine Rover rubbish) missing. I had that next day, didn't use them as they were rubbish, genuine Land Rover part in LR bag and part#, used Crane lash caps instead, highly recommended, Regards Frank
P.S. Also purchased a Genuine Garret Turbo for the 300TDi from same vendor at half the price elsewhere, same great service.

Care to share details of your amazing contact with super impressive prices?

Frank,
I too have been looking for a new head for my D2a. The prices vary considerably:-


Australia:
1. AMC Head at Hoppers Heads Melbourne with install kit included, delivered to Brisbane (only $50) $3045
2. AMC Head at British Offroad, Forest Glen Qld, $3795 plus install kit no delivery
3. AMC Head at M.R.Automotive, Redcliffe Qld $3995 plus install kit no delivery


UK:
1. AMC Head at Turners Engineering UK $3100 delivered including 2 x install kits (seals front and back etc) and sealant all GST and Charges delivered to Brisbane


Very interested to hear your contact Frank and what parts whether they are genuine or not. Apparently the Britparts you can get in the UK are rubbish??????

3lud13, as you are keen to for me to share my contact and super dooper prices and are not inferring I'm bull****ting, I will give you the details, which I have posted before.
Landy Imports Australia, Newcastle, NSW name is Rick.
I just had a quick squiz on eBay and noticed that 3 heads are available in Australia, 1 in Qld, 1 in Springwood (assume blue mts. NSW), cant remember the other (getting old), there was a bloke in Tassie selling them when I bought mine.
I paid around $850 for mine at the time (AU $ was worth around 1 USD$ at the time, I will have a scrounge around and find the receipt, next time you want to infer that I'm telling Porkies, do so to my face, or shut your cake hole, Regards Frank.
P,S. the block drain hole is right behind the dipstick tube, which makes it hard to see and get at.

Originally Posted by Tank

3lud13, as you are keen to for me to share my contact and super dooper prices and are not inferring I'm bull****ting, I will give you the details, which I have posted before.
Landy Imports Australia, Newcastle, NSW name is Rick.
I just had a quick squiz on eBay and noticed that 3 heads are available in Australia, 1 in Qld, 1 in Springwood (assume blue mts. NSW), cant remember the other (getting old), there was a bloke in Tassie selling them when I bought mine.
I paid around $850 for mine at the time (AU $ was worth around 1 USD$ at the time, I will have a scrounge around and find the receipt, next time you want to infer that I'm telling Porkies, do so to my face, or shut your cake hole, Regards Frank.
P,S. the block drain hole is right behind the dipstick tube, which makes it hard to see and get at.

Yup took a guess earlier and found the drain plug for the coolant.
Never said you were bull****ing I was just curious as to how one could of found one that cheap locally as mine from the UK is coming in for about $800ish I think if memory serves me so finding something for that price locally after my searching I struggle to believe.

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This currently is what my block is looking like any tips for removing the gasket buildup as it seems to be stuck quite well and even with a plastic scraper I'm not having much luck, figure a metal scraper isn't the best idea to use so seeking some advice on that one.