Thread: New Fairey overdrive

Can't help with the question but I like the catch can oil res

i have no such issues with my toro

seems like an odd issue...

Sounds like the synchro is not working too well. Could be incorrect assembly, needs to be run in a bit, or just trying to change faster than it can cope with - try pausing in neutral. Otherwise, just double declutch.

John

My Toro has tired synchro rings so sometimes, if I mistime the changes, it can lock me out of the next gear. I have to go back where I was coming from and have another go. The whole unit is based on the Series 3 and Range Rover slow-synchro bits so I have to drive it with a little relevent respect.

Your catch-can sump thing is neat-ish but I'm not quite convinced on the pipe from the bottom of the O/D. It hangs down a bit too far for my liking, and if it cops a bash it could so easily drop all your oil in one hit. I know, it's not easy to score the ideal fittings all the time, but maybe keep an eye out for a banjo-bolt set-up as you can, and be mindful of the dangly bits if you're offroading.

I run my Toro without the lip on the big outer seal and without the entire inner seal. I decided to try it when I kept finding the O/D overfilling itself. It now shares oil with the transfer case without a problem. I am aware though, that should any bearings break up in the O/D they'll end up all through the transfer as well.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (still in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (still resting quietly), 74 S3 109" pet4, plus 26 other parts/project cars.

Thanks fot the replays guys ,
I messages 107 Gus and he recommended adjusting the selector fork . I pulled the cover off and gave it a coupel of mill extra on the disengage side . It now works perfect. The lay gear I had made up is very quiet no high pitched noise at all. Just did a test drive using the OD like a splitter great on hills .
Mike

Originally Posted by dandlandyman

My Toro has tired synchro rings so sometimes, if I mistime the changes, it can lock me out of the next gear. I have to go back where I was coming from and have another go. The whole unit is based on the Series 3 and Range Rover slow-synchro bits so I have to drive it with a little relevent respect.

Your catch-can sump thing is neat-ish but I'm not quite convinced on the pipe from the bottom of the O/D. It hangs down a bit too far for my liking, and if it cops a bash it could so easily drop all your oil in one hit. I know, it's not easy to score the ideal fittings all the time, but maybe keep an eye out for a banjo-bolt set-up as you can, and be mindful of the dangly bits if you're offroading.

I run my Toro without the lip on the big outer seal and without the entire inner seal. I decided to try it when I kept finding the O/D overfilling itself. It now shares oil with the transfer case without a problem. I am aware though, that should any bearings break up in the O/D they'll end up all through the transfer as well.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (still in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (still resting quietly), 74 S3 109" pet4, plus 26 other parts/project cars.

Banjo bolt yes that's the go good idea!

Cant see what the catch can does with only one pipe in the circuit

Originally Posted by chopper

Cant see what the catch can does with only one pipe in the circuit

I thought the same thing. It increases the oil capacity so you have to lose a lot more before it causes problems, also easier to visually check oil level.
I'm not sure the oil will have any reason to move backwards & forwards through the pipe and heat transfer would be slow through the pipe section.

Mike, what's the drain plug thread ? I'll see what banjo fittings we have at work.

Colin