Did You know this 'Can' happen to a diesel (Death by oil)

why dont you have a go at doing the IP timing check for yourself?

remove the front cover, turn the crank till the IP is in alignment with its timing mark and then insert the timing pin, if the crank marker is inline and the #4 valves are one the rock then the engines in sync and should start, given that it had a go at starting I suspect that you're just purging air from the system. Hook it up to some not kidding class jumper leads and a running vehicle with 700CCA+ of battery and see what it does.

Depending on where you are i might be able to swing by with the compression tester and check that out for you.

is there such a thing as a bore scope (with light) that would fit inside the injector or glow plug hole?

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Originally Posted by Dougal

[snip]

But I do get a little draconian at times. Machinery is there to serve me dammit.:D

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Spoken like most of the B.Eng(Mech) I've ever known, no mechanical sympathy whatsoever. :twisted:




Actually, sounds like most mechanics I've known too :lol2:



I think this is where I get all pretentious and call myself a 'technician' just like all the young blokes in my trade :angel:

:Rolling:

Serg, when you get a 10mm deep socket just pull the Glow plugs and crank the bugger to clear the pots then just try and fire her up.

With the amount of oil you got out of the intake side of things it's all probably too wet inside the chambers to fire properly.

Or just tripe glow the bugger the get the pots warm and try and fire her.

would a bent rod be effecting crank speed?

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Originally Posted by uninformed

would a bent rod be effecting crank speed?

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Maybe, but it would affect the ability to start. Maybe you've bent all 4?

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Originally Posted by uninformed

would a bent rod be effecting crank speed?

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As it has been suggested to take out the glow plugs, a quick test can be done the determine if the pistons are equal in their height using a length of wire ( cut a piece out of a coat hanger ) feed it down through the glow plug hole of cylinder No 1 and with a socket and 1/2 drive, turn motor over steady until you have the piston at top dead centre, clamp a set of mole grips at the top of the cylinder head.
repeat this test in No 4 next and note the difference if the length varies, it won't be much even if the conrod is badly bent and in a motor I did recently with a badly bent conrod the difference was about 5 mm max.
spin the motor crank another half turn and then test cylinders No 2 and 3.

If the motor has bent conrod's in all four then the compression would be down and the crank speed should be faster, but then the conrod's could be fouling the bottom of their cylinders, as Blknight.aus has already questioned the slower crank speed .

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Originally Posted by uninformed

is there such a thing as a bore scope (with light) that would fit inside the injector or glow plug hole?

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yes, I have 2, one digital and one old school.

specifically purchased for checking out the injectors on a series but I think we might be in with a shot, on yours, but you dont need to inspect inside there are other fault finding methods you can use.

Compression test is the first test, depending on what that brings out you need a leak down test.

once thats done you know what you need to pull of and since thats invariably going to include a head pull you do that.

then you measure piston stand off from the block head (after checking the block level) and work out the crank deflection and providing that the leakdown prooved that the rings and pots were at least reasonable you inspect the bores on the way and make a decision as to wether or not your going to do a bottom end overhaul or rebuild.


Now to work all that out its about time the conversation heads to somewhere like this...

"Hey dave, you seem to have all the gear to measure up this engine for me and help me work out what I need to do, can you come over and give me a hand"

"not sure, where are you"

"Im at X"

"cool, I'll be out there on Y"

"Nahh can you make is sooner?"

"depends when?"

"z?"

"sure, gunna cost you about a carton and fuel money"

hashing out the X+Y should be easy enough Z will depend on my schedules.

I did an oil blot test last night. See attached pic:

I removed the glow plugs today. Number 2 is toast, which leads me to think bigger problems lie beneth.

#1 on the left - #4 on the right:
#1 at top - #4 at bottom: