Any Bosch diesel shop should have them.
They are just copper right? I'll have to sort out where to get them the correct size.
Any Bosch diesel shop should have them.
if you've got the right after market lift pump they are completely rebuildable and an overhaul kit is about $40 and it takes about an hour to do.
If you have the OEM pump, now is the time to either look at an after market one OR taking the old pump off and converting the plate to mount a Facet pump + drive relay (take the signal from the IP solenoid wire and then tap either the alternator or the starter terminal for the +ve feed.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I already bought the Delphi today. Just trying to keep it simple.
removed the old lift pump(original fitment) and replaced it with the Delphi. It looks to my untrained eye that the main arm on the OEM one is bent up. And if the manual lever is ment to orperate the main arm??? it is not touching the arm.
BTW, both lift pumps manual lever have a 90 degree range of movement when in hand (not on engine) both are restricted to 30 degrees range due to a hose directly below the lift pump. This hose is unable to be moved. I do wonder if the arm doesnt have enough travel to work manually?
once I installed the new lift pump, I tried to hand prime it. I removed the fuel filter bleed bolt and pumped. Maybe I didnt pump enough, but It didnt. SO I turned the engine over and soon enough it gushed out.
I then tried to start it. It would not fire.
Can someone confirm the fuel rail/pipe locations for me. I have, calling the front of the engine, radiator end cylinder #1 and the rear/bulkhead end cylinder #4
Looking at the back of the Injection pump:
#1 top right
#2 bottom right
#3 top left
#4 bottom left
Pics of both lift pumps attached.
After a harroing 127hrs, with amazing will, heart and courage, Seven has been found alive. He had to cut his own arm off after being stuck in a cravass between the engine block and mount.....he is getting the proper medical attention and resting well
be sure to look out for the book and following movie of his heroic tail
I just did Ben's viscosity test. I still have the bucket of oil I drained from the engine 30mins after the incident, on the side of the road. This has been untouched since. I did NOT stir it up?
using a tongue depressor, timber, 20mm wide. I dipped it in vertically and withdrew the same. The oil ran continuious for approx 4-5 seconds then started to drip. Using a stop watch and starting it from the time I pulled the tongue depressor out of the oil, I counted 10 drips in 30 seconds. This includes the first 4 or so seconds of flowing oil. Drip number 10 took approx 4-5 seconds from drip 9 and then another 4 or so seconds to the 30 second mark....there was an 11th, but it was very slow,
Oil is Castrol RX Super 15w-40 and was filled new that morning.
here is a picture of #1 injector. Does anything not look right?
You can't check injectors with your eyeball.
thanks Jake, I know you have to have them tested by the experts for flow etc. I was more just curious if the tips or any part looked stuffed? I have found another acount of an oil overfill of a 2.8tgv, back in 2006. Apparently his injectors melted and had damage to the top of his pistons.
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