to field test an injector mount it upside down on the injector line (decompress the whole engine, crack all the fuel lines and cover the unions with rags) then crank the engine over at wide open throttle with fuel on while you hold a piece of card about 15cm/15cm about 10cm away from the tip of the injector.
if all 4 throw the same pattern and none of them exhibit funny spray patterns/streams/needles/ or leave droplets then they are near enough for what you need for now.
your injector line pattern makes sense to me, the pump turns the same way as the crank and fires in the order 1342 (counter clockwsie if you're looking from the back of the injector pump)
so long as you havent touched them before recording their locations you'll be right. when you go to put them back theres only about 8 ways you can put them on that go close and only 1 way that actually works properly, If you have to move the line unions more than about 1/2 an inch from its resting position then the line is in the wrong place.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Injector problems won't stop it running. They'd just make it smoke various different colours.
If you've got enough fuel being injected and enough cranking speed then it should start. If it was a vehicle you didn't care about you can just tow it until it fires.
I just compared new out of the drum Castrol RX Super. When tested with the stop watch, dipped to the same depth etc it comes out pretty much the same. I then tested them side by side. The used engine oil does "run" for a second longer but drips seem the same. Whipping the oil off the tongue dipressors and leaving a drop has them eyeball them same size and thickness.......
very crude testing I know.
would the fact that the engine oil has run through and is now black have thinned it at all?
So if testing the injectors is not next on the list what is?
I just removed the rocker cover. All looks ok. No bits of metal floating in there. Is it ok to remove the wire from the back of the Injection pump and turn it over by key? ie it wont start? I want to see if the valve train is moving ok.
Serg - you need to repeat the test with clean castrol RX Super. I have drums of it in the lab, but would need a duplicate of your tongue depressor to do the test for you.
Also - stir up the drained oil and repeat the test to make sure the result is the same.
EDIT - I see you have. Stir the used oil and repeat the test. The soot in the used oil will increase its viscosity very slightly, but not by a measurable amount. You can also mix up a cupful of RXSuper and Diesel at say 10% ratio and compare.
EDIT 2- yes you can crank the engine, and even start/idle it, with the tappet cover removed. Just don't rev it or you will spray oil everywhere.
I may have missed it, but do you have diesel coming out the injector pipes???
Yes you can turn the motor over with the IP wire removed.
Hopefuly you see the tappets moving the vales.
I will have to check the injector lines again. But I did the last time I checked with the original lift pump still installed.
Im thinking about removing the glow plugs and turning over to see if any crap gets pumped out.
Is an increase in viscosity meaning thinner or thicker?
re hand priming the lift pump. Could someone look at their 300tdi and see what range of movement the manual lever has?
The easiest/best way I know outside of a lab to check for oil dilution is the blotter test.
Get a piece of cardboard (a business card is ideal) and drop some oil onto it and let it spread.
Fuel will show up as a light halo around the darker engine oil and spread quite a bit further as it's a lighter fraction.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ml#post1320223
FAQ's :: Valvoline ::
If fuel is present you'll get a distinct ring like a halo outside of the 'colour'
yep, was about to suggest the blotter test...
do them side by side using freshly stirred oil...
I prefer to tilt the sheet of paper combining a very basic version of 3 tests in one.
1. viscosity. how far does it run how quickly? the further it runs, the thinner it is
2. Particle density seperation. Whats in the oil, whats it made of? as the drop of oil runs down the paper and gets smaller the lighter heavier bits will get stuck at the top of the droplet and stick to the paper the heavier bits will be at the bottom.
3. Oil quality. Where the bead finally stops moving and settles if you drop the piece of paper down flat the above indicated blotter test results will show up.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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