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9th July 2012, 06:08 AM
#341
I'd say the oil in your intake is at the normal level. Even for a rebuilt engine. Your blowby issue is possibly making the turbo lose some oil out the seals when it's idling, but when working the labyrinth seals will be working in the proper direction.
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30th December 2012, 08:41 PM
#342
update
did another 5k oil change....I think my oil consumption has slowed a fair bit (forgot to check pre change
)
now it may have been my mind, but engine felt smoother post oil change (RX Super)
I am loosing coolant at a very low rate. It seems to weep out the end of the hose...not between the hose and fitting, but the end of hose itself. I did trim 5-10mm off a couple hoses to get a better fit and clearance some other parts....would this be no good?
I have tried removing and cleaning surface, re tightening but doesnt seem to make much difference.
I also just did a trip to Toowoomba from the GC. going up the range, and only maintaining the speed limits (100, 90, 70 then 60) the engine temp went from 88c right upto 99c ....this was at 4pm on Wed 26...hotish at the bottom, but 2/3 way up definte ambient temp and humidity drop. Now my 110 tray back was empty and is one of the lighest getting around.
id hate to have load in or behind it....
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31st December 2012, 12:23 PM
#343
Hi Serg,
I recently fitted a VDO mechanical temperature gauge to my VNT'd 300Tdi 130 dual cab and have been a little shocked at what I've seen. I've regularly been seeing 104 degrees climbing longer hills with very little load on board (just the A/C on). I believe the key is to ensure the temperature drops afterwards, meaning that your cooling system is in good order. What's scaring me a little is that my temps aren't really dropping that much, even though my radiator is relatively new. Further investigation required for me, but I wouldn't say 99 degrees for your "tweaked up" donk is necessarily bad. Just my opinion....
James.
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31st December 2012, 12:49 PM
#344
If you run a 15psi radiator cap, then the average boiling temperature rises to around 115-120C.
But this is average, low pressure spots will still boil at lower temps.
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31st December 2012, 01:34 PM
#345
thanks guys,
yes it drops back pretty quickly, say within 3mins of leveling out and back to normal load.
Rainman, I have the standard cooling system, except for a lower cracking T/Stat and I have cut a vent in the left gaurd which helps exausht hot engine bay.
Dougal, as stated standard system which has the pressurised cap, not sure what psi though?
After the recommendations of Pat and Dave, I run Tectalloy Extra Gold Coolant.
Im just very paranoid about heat after cooking the head on my Tdi.
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31st December 2012, 02:04 PM
#346
A Tdi should be safe to about 115* or a bit more, IIRC one of the Disco switches to turn the AC off doesn't switch until 115*C.
[edit] and no, I wouldn't be comfortable running one there either
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18th March 2013, 06:57 AM
#347
Not happy
18000km and looks like it has done a head gasket. Im about to take it to the mechanincs.
Regarding head bolts, should I be supplying new ones or reuse the old ones? Im not sure what type they are, all I can find in the manual at this stage is the torque instructions which states 60nm + 150 degrees.
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18th March 2013, 07:39 AM
#348
Damn
. Keep us posted Serg.
James.
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18th March 2013, 08:00 AM
#349
Bugger, thats not good 
Personally I certainly wouldn't reuse the headbolts.
good luck.
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18th March 2013, 08:43 AM
#350
well looks like another UK order/wait
definitely a downside to using an engine that isnt locally supported.
Apart from head gasket and head bolts, are there any other consumables that would be replaced during a head off, head gasket replacement? Obviously you cant predict any damaged parts, just those that should not be reused.
Id like to get the order under way ASAP.
Im a bit dirty at the moment. Only 18k after a FULL rebuild including all genuine parts and machine work. On top of which I do my oil and filter every 5k. Try to keep an eye on things and am about to overhaul all wheel and swivel bearings, brake rotors, pads and calipers. I have even been looking into R380s to have one ready to swap in before mine goes bad......had to keep ontop of preventive maintainence when being dragged down with failures.
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