Thread: Pinning Liners in a 4.6

Originally Posted by Kevin B

I was only planning on 20 thou to match theses pistons I have

That is what I had done Boring relieves the tension on the liners so they will slip after a few km, once the block gets hot.

Well I might just take the chance but ill pin the liners in the 3.5 first, top hatting is just not an option for me

..........

The RAVE description of the pre and post MY99 production models of the 4.6 concurs with the above.

Quote from RAVE:

"The cylinder block is fitted with cast iron cylinder liners which are shrink-fitted and locate on stops in the block."

I haven't pulled mine apart yet to check

I do remember on my P6's 3500 that there was a stop at the bottom of the block - the re-conditioner called me in to look at it, because I had asked him if he knew about the slipping liner problem.

Together we agreed that we couldn't see how the liners could move, when they were clamped at the top by the gasket and to my lasting regret we got it wrong.

Now I know that the top-hat relies on the head to clamp it in place rather than the gasket. The liners not being pushed all the way down, makes sense as well,

Cheers Charlie

here is a PDF i found on here some time ago about the process of pinning liners, i didn't write this but found it interesting.

Put an LS1 in it. Just a thought.

Land Rover V8 Engine Conversion Kits using the LS Series V8 Engine | Marks 4WD Adaptors

Holden Commodore VT VX VU VY WH WK V8 5 7LTR GEN3 LS1 Engine Motor | eBay

correct, besides i'm not after a race car or stump puller, just something with enough torque to pull the skin off a rice pudding

...........

actually same cost as replacing the 4.0 with a 4.6.