Is the cooling system pressurizing?
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Is the cooling system pressurizing?
If its the original head Joel its likely to have gone soft or cracked by now, new head design definitely runs cooler.
Nah hoses weren't hard, even when it was red hot so I suppose that might be a good sign.
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If it comes to needing a head job, not worth the spend IMO. Funny thing is, based on my own experience of 7 years DD, I'm really starting to disagree on the whole Tdi auto being the pick of the D1 range bunch thought process. V8 manual is where it is at. Can tow just fine all day and when needed, drop it in 4th and let it rev like a turbine. Who gives a crap about the fuel use? It's either spend the money on that or the depreciation on a new car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
Spent a bit of time driving a 1987 Troopy 2H with AXT turbo whilst mine was being converted and it just worked, no grief. There really is no replacement for displacement.
A new head is about the same cost as a new set of tyres. I know you'll be highly ****ed off with it now. But that'll pass and sanity will return.Quote:
Originally Posted by B92 8NW
The v8 isn't the tow animal people assume it to be. I've found it quite average for torque even remapped. But mine is auto.
Fuel use means the towing range of the v8 is abysmal.
The Toyota 2h with an after market turbo is possibly the worst diesel after the 2lt. High fuel consumption, low power, massive heating problems and head problems all in one.
Out of interest where do you have your plunger lift set at?
Dougal and Dave were a while back talking of how too much advanced will actually artificially reduce EGTs outside the manifold but have them raging hot in the pot.
Im seeing 20psi of boost at the manifold with my setup and am advanced as far as JC suggests with fuelling maxed on the anneroid but no extra added.
Just wondering where you have your plunger lift set at?
S
That I have no idea, assuming 1,54mm at TDC.Quote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
It may pay to check - certainly would interest me !!!! ?
Standard timing setting is when the timing pin slides easily into the FIP through the timing hole in front case. As you said this should IIRC be 1.54mm of plunger lift
However it is more accurately measured directly via dial gauge into the plunger pin at rear of FIP (centre blanking plug between all the fuel line outlets) Thread dimension is M10x1.0 I made up a small threaded adaptor for my dial gauge ????
JC advocates advancing timing to 1.60mm from memory for more bite.
I have my FIP set at this and despite high fuelling and 20psi boost can only max out EGTs at 550-575 (fully loaded up an incline foot to the boards)
I have a niggling thought my pistons crowns may be cooking???
Hopefully Dougal will chime in. From memory he recommends standard or slightly retard timing when maxing out fuel/air in a td engine. Something about flame fronts, piston temps and leprechauns in the cylinder I believe...
Steve
I have yet to get my 300tdi properly working (head is in the post) so I can't comment on the specifics.Quote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
But I can comment on injection timing in general.
The peak combustion pressures in your engine are what does damage to the head. These are influenced by the boost, the fuel and the injection timing.
Advanced injection timing results in higher peak pressures. This is good for starting, engine efficiency (fuel economy) and improves power and torque.
However the increases in engine stress (everything from crank to head) are much higher than the increase in power.
Increasing boost already advances the speed of combustion, so it's unwise to advance timing while running high boost. Retarding timing (while still being in a range of acceptable starting and fuel economy) can greatly reduce the mechanical stress on your engine while also helping turbo spool (through hotter exhaust).
I plan to run more boost in my 300tdi and see if I can keep it reliable. The plan is to run the head-bolts tighter but also to keep injection timing less advanced than most.
Mate don't take this the wrong way but you turned up the taps with both boost and fuel and be honest when you towed you used that power which caused it to boil,it wouldn't matter if it was a Tdi or not,this type of thing happens all the time with people fiddling with their engines,as you posted you just kept winding in the fuel screw,there's a reason it has an anti-tampering tag on it.Fix the motor and get a proper dyno tune by someone who knows what they are doing. Pat