Painting Tips Required.

One of my old cars runs about 5litres of brake fluid around the car in it's hydraulic system. I put a lot of time into investigating this. The only coating I could find that seems completelly immune to brake fluid is POR Hardnose. It's an activated coating. It's fumes always seem to make me feel crook in the guts even when brushed on. It sets like cement.

I'm not convinced though. If rust manages to wick under it, it would hide the rust until it broke away leaving a hole. It also doesn't self level anywhere near as nice as the standard POR.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...14/10/1294.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...14/10/1295.jpg

It applied so shiny, I struggled to get a picture of it without it washing out. In the end I converted the whole cars hydraulics to run mineral fluid, so we have rust prevention when it leaks, not paint stripping rust generating, moisture absorbing brake fluid :angel:

seeya,
Shane L

Interestingly the KDS spec chart indicates brake fluid resistant for up to an hour, I think it was (without heading to the shed to verify).

DoubleShevron, yours looks like a bit of a nightmare job - another citroen or should I say another "doubleshevron"? :)

p76, nice chassis job. Soon to start mine. Bought a cheap sand blasting unit to get at all the difficult bits like the outrigger shells.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by workingonit

Interestingly the KDS spec chart indicates brake fluid resistant for up to an hour, I think it was (without heading to the shed to verify).

DoubleShevron, yours looks like a bit of a nightmare job - another citroen or should I say another "doubleshevron"? :)

p76, nice chassis job. Soon to start mine. Bought a cheap sand blasting unit to get at all the difficult bits like the outrigger shells.

---

Nah ... there just a big meccano set.... Just like a landrover (the trick is to find one that's not rusted to hell and back :( ).

I really enjoy tinkering with old cars .... The more I'm forced against my will to look at modern crap, the more I hate it. Last dash I had to remove was from my wifes car.... No exaggeration ... 17hours labour it was to get it out and put it back. Gee's I HATE working on modern crap. I'd sooner burn it and dance around the fire than work on it.

With the oldies we're playing with ... Man assembled it with simple tools.... Man can dis-assemble it with simple tools :) None of this "assembled by robot on production line and body is dropped on afterward ... making it impossible to get back apart :o :twisted: :angrylock:

seeya,
Shane L.

p76, forgot to say, yes I noticed your comment on cheap brushes and to decant a working quantity. Bought one of the KDS kits with their brushes included - but I will be wary. Regarding wire brushes - yes, I've used them on car bonnets, but so slow after discovering the scotch bright scourer stuff impregnated throughout the porous structure with grit - new cutting material exposed as it wears down.

>>, was that you on another thread talking about panel slapping with a leaf spring?! Hows that work? Is slapping a hard craft to master?

Oops, sorry, back to painting Dougals rear...

Thanks *********. I was just mucking about by putting a double chevron ie >> as reference to double chevron :)

It's nothing exciting .... A chevron is an upside down "V" ... DoubleChevron is two upside down "V"s.... It's also the citroen badge... Most of the modern ones are incorporated in the grill ... and look tacky.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...14/10/1270.jpg

Slappers work just like hammers... but way better (IMO) ... Off dolly will lift the metal around the dolly (larger areas), on dolly will lift the small area between the slapper and the dolly. You need the shrinking disc though ... There bloody amazing!

seeya
Shane L.

So I'm into the tedious primer/sand/primer/sand part. Are there any hard and fast rules for how much you should try to build up with high volume primer?

I won't know until I actually get the creases filled, but maybe 1.5mm required.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dougal

So I'm into the tedious primer/sand/primer/sand part. Are there any hard and fast rules for how much you should try to build up with high volume primer?

I won't know until I actually get the creases filled, but maybe 1.5mm required.

---

Are you using primer + spray putty or just one-step stuff?
Usually the smallest amount needed to do the job. You can buy spot putty (in a tube) for any deeper scratches.

Put a good coat on, patch any known scratches, then once dry, mist over the top with a rattle can of black so you can see the low spots and scratches when you sand.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Are you using primer + spray putty or just one-step stuff?
Usually the smallest amount needed to do the job. You can buy spot putty (in a tube) for any deeper scratches.

Put a good coat on, patch any known scratches, then once dry, mist over the top with a rattle can of black so you can see the low spots and scratches when you sand.

---

Using combination primer/filler. I'm guessing it's not as high build as a spray putty product. Got any recommendations for filler brand/type in a tube?

I can see the low/high spots without any black paint. These are artifacts of the prior damage and panel-beating.

BTW Sika F11C seals and paints over perfectly.:D

I have usually used septone products for everything except etch primer (needed on bare AL) and the top coat.
It seems it is available in NZ
Welcome to Smits Group


http://www.autopaints.com.au/image/c...00-500x500.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...14/10/1051.jpg