300tdi timing - questions

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Originally Posted by firsttracks

That fibre washer, would I be able to get it at my local auto shop? I can't see it online anywhere?

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There's a paper/fibre washer that goes on the inside of the 110mm long bolt that goes through the (not quite centre) of the timing cover. That is it goes between the inside of the timing cover and the front of the engine. Its acts as a packer the same thickness as the timing cover gasket so that the timing cover isn't bent when this bolt is done up. A spare comes with a full timing kit otherwise use any handy washer that fits or cut up a piece of old gasket to suit.

The manual shows that the belt tensioner is done up to 15 Nm for a new belt but I reckon this has been amended but I can't remember the correct figure. It'll be here somewhere and definitely worth getting right.

Deano :)

I can get a part number tonight for the washer.

I happen to have spares in my toolbox.
Toolbox is at yatala and I'll be picking it up at 1530 today if thats any help.

Correct belt tension is 11 Nm. :)

To avoid excessive belt wear and premature belt failure. :(




Deano :)

yeah part number would be great
should have ordered the full kit.

ERR2344-joint washer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by firsttracks

yeah part number would be great
should have ordered the full kit.

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The most important job is to install the Timing pin into the flywheel, Auto's have the timing pin hole on the front face of the flywheel, there is a small cover plate fixed with one large head bolt 9/16"/14mm the other is 10mm I think. The timing pin tool fits into the larger of the 2 bolt holes, you rotate the crank till you can slide the pin into a hole in the flywheel you have to have the engine at TDC and keep it there till the job's done.
Check your marks on the timing gears, they should align, then slip a 3/8" (10mm) drill shank into the timing pin hole in the injector pump hole in the front of the gear, then loosen the 3 bolts on the front of the same gear, don't remove any pins, gear or flywheel till you have fitted new belt, crank pulley and tensioner.
You can't use a standard type torque wrench to set the 11Nm on the tensioner, you will need an expensive Dial type torque wrench or a cheapy that has the long pointer the reads of a scale near the handle. You have to use this type because you need to apply and hold the 11Nm of tension while you tighten the lock bolt, good luck, Regards Frank.

hey guys, is it just me or have I got the incorrect seal for the front cover
my part number is ERR4576,
but the seal currently sitting in the front cover has a metal inner/flange ?

You can leave that steel sleeved seal assembly in there, it was an 'upgrade' fitted to later Tdi engines. Don't bother replacing it unless it won't rotate smoothly. If it is knackered, just drift it out and fit the ERR4576 in its place.


JC

can you push the camshaft seal in too far ?

I was concentrating on drifting it in square before i realised it was much deeper, than the one I took out ?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t4u0cjpjfd...9.jpg'dl=0

judging by the official landrover tool, it looks like I have pushed it too deep,
should I remove and refit another ? or will the seal get pushed back out, from internal pressure ?
lrt-12-082 - http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog...tools1-p4.html

I just had a look at a spare timing chest I have here.
There is nothing to stop the seal from being pushed all the way through, so YES it can be in too far.